3400 Engine Swap
Chapter 4: Prepping the new motor - Part 2
Continuation of the engine preparation..
You have a couple options for handling the EGR valve. Adapt it to fit, or delete it. It isn't too hard to adapt it, and unless there is a visual check, you can still pass emissions testing with it deleted, but you'll have to disable it in the chip as well so you don't throw a code.
If you decide to delete it, your can just bolt something down over the hole in the manifold to block it, or have the hole TIG welded shut. Just remember the EGR will have to be disabled in the computer programming for the car to function properly.
If you got your moter from an Alero and you have a '92-'94 J-body, you are set and don't need to do anything to your fuel lines. The lines will hook right up to the stock body lines.
If you didn't get those nice fuel lines, or you have a 91 and earlier j-body that doesn't have the quick connect lines, then you'll need to modify then to allow them to hook up to the body lines. You can either use flexable fuel injection hose, or use brass union fittings.
If going the union fitting route, cut off the fuel lines on a strait portion of the lines. use a small tubbing cutter to get a nice clean burr-free cut. Then install one side if your 5/16" and 3/8" union fittings to those lines. You'll do the remainder of the connection to the body lines once the motor is in the car.
Now is a good time to install your clutch. But before installing it, you need to have your flywheel machined at a machine shop, if it still has enough material to be machined, or purchase a new wheel. This will ensure a perfectly flat surface so you don't run into any problems.
I wouldn't recommand installing a used stock clutch, or even a brand new stock clutch for that matter, because it will not hold up to the extra power for long. I originally used a Stage 2 Bully clutch. Lots of people have had good luck with this clutch, but lots of people have also had problems. I never had a problem with mine slipping, but it would never fully disengage from the flywheel, making shifting dificult and causing the car to want to move even when the pedal was all the way down. I am now running a Stage 3 EZ-Clutch I got off Ebay. It is holding the power of my modified engine just fine, but takes a while to get used to because if its small window (and high pedal) of engagement.
The flywheel bolts should be torqued to 52 lb/ft with red thread lock applied. As with any wheel, torque in a criss-cross (star) fashion. Be sure you DO NOT use the flexplate bolts that may have still been on the motor. These are from the automatic and are shorter. You risk stripping the threads, or the bolts coming lose if you accidentally use these.
The pressure plate bolts should be torqued to 18 lb/ft, plus an additional 30°.
You can now install the transmission as well, since we'll drop it all into the car as one assembly, just like we pulled it out.
Chapter 6: Installing the new motor (Coming Soon) »
3400 Swap Navigation
- Introduction / Why should I swap?
- What parts am I going to need & what will this cost me?
- Removing the old engine
- Prepping the new motor - Part 1
- Prepping the new motor - Part 2
- Installing the new motor (Coming Soon)
- Tuning your new motor (Coming Soon)
- Troubleshooting your swap (Coming Soon)
- Frequently Asked Questions (Coming Soon)