This how-to shows you how to replace the front 9.5" brakes on your 91 and older j-body with the 10" brakes off the 92 - 94 cars.

Gather up your new parts.

Raise and securly support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.

We will do the swap one side at a time. Feel free to start with whichever side you want. We started on the drivers side. Break loose the brake line to caliper bolt, just enough to make it easier to remove later on. Use a torx bit and ratchet to remove the two bolts holding on the brake caliper. Move it to the side. If you are reusing the brake lines, it is best not to let it hang by the lines.

Pull off the rotor. There is nothing else holding it on.

Remove the three bolts on the hub. You will need to turn the hub to line up the holes to access the bolts. Use your torx bit and ratchet.

Now remove the hub nut. An impact wrench makes this easy ;) If you don't have an impact wrench, you should loosen this bolt before you remove the wheels, so the hub won't turn. The hub can now be removed from the axle. If it is stuck, you may need to use a two-jaw puller to get it off..

Remove the bolt at the balljoint. First pry out the retaining clip, then loosen the bolt. Pop the balljoint out of the steering knuckle by striking the knuckle ballstud boss sharply with a hammer while using a large pry bar to pry down on the lower control arm . Once it is loose, separate the control arm from the steering knuckly by prying the ballstud out of the hole with a large prybar.

Remove the two bolts holding the strut on to the knuckle. Once again, and impact wrench works best here. See the Strut & Spring how-to for the proper procedure of marking the bolt locations before removal. The spindle can now be removed from the vehicle.

If your new spindle didn't come with a seal, you will need to remove the seal from your old unit and install it in the new one. Be sure to lube it up with some grease before and after installation.

Greese up the drive shaft and install the new knuckle. You must install the left side knuckle on the right, and vice versa. The placement of the caliper changed between 91 and 92, so you must reverse the knuckles to keep the caliper in the same location to allow your brake lines to connect. Connect the knuckle to the balljoint and tighten the nut. Install and tighten the two strut to knuckle bolts up top.

Install the shield and hub assembly. Tighten it down with the three bolts, then install the center hub nut.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line and quickly install the new caliper to keep fluid loss at a minimum. You may wish to replace the washer while you have this disconnected, to minimize the chance of a fluid leak.

Install the new rotor and pads in the caliper. Attach the caliper using the new allen bolts.

One side down, one to go! Repeat the above steps for the other side

Now is time to bleed the brake system. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. Insert a clear plastic hose over the bleeder valve on the caliper. Stick the other end of the hose in a clear container of clean brake fluid. Loosen the screw with a wrench. Have a friend slowly apply the brake pedal and hold. Tighten the bleed screw and have the friend release the brake. Repeat this procedure (loosen, press brake, tighten) until no more bubbles come out. Repeat for the other caliper. Be sure the reservoir is filled to the proper level.

Take her for a test drive and notice your increase in stopping power! You best take her in for an alignment before you do much driving, though!