How to Install A Heated O2 Sensor
- 4-wire heated O2 sensor w/ pigtail. You can get this off any newer car with the 3100 or 3400 motor.
- Inline Fuse
- Soldering Iron
- Basic Tools
- Wire cutters/strippers
- Electrical Tape/Heat shrink tubing
How To Do It
Aquire your parts and determine which wire on your harness does what. Not all harnesses may be the same colors, but the pinout should stay the same. Use the diagram to determine wire colors.
First you want to swap out your stock single-wire O2 for the heated one. There will be no clearance problems on the 2.8/3.1, but if you've got a 3x00 swap, you know how close the O2 already is to the tie rod ends, if it's not hitting already. So you'll definately have to relocate the O2 to the downpipe now, since the 4 wire sensor is a bit longer.
Next, you will need to find power that is only 12V when the engine is running. There is a wire coming out of the back of the altenator that does just that. That wire is brown with a white stripe. I spliced in to there with the Pin D (brown). I also used an in-line fuse holder with a 5A fuse.
Next, hook the Pin A (tan) and Pin C (black) wires together, and run them both to ground. I mounted mine to one of the left over holes from the stock MAP sensor location. (Map sensor was not located on the firewall on all models)
Then I zip-tied the connector to one of the power-steering lines to keep it out of the way from getting tangled.
And thats it. This has drastically cut down my warm up time. Today is was 0C (32F) and it took under 2 minutes for my car to enter closed loop, where as before it would take well over 5 minutes in warmer weather.