How to Swap rear disk brakes onto your j-body
- The setup is the same from 95-02, so any year should work. To do what I did, you will need (part numbers for all this can be found in step 1)
- Caliper bracket
- Backing plate/dust shield
- ALL internal park brake hardware
- Balancer for park brake cables (inside car)
- New park brake cables
- New brake lines to go from hard bent to caliper
How To Do It
04509504 (SOCKET, rear wheel p/brake adj screw)
04383541 (SPRING, p/brake shoe retainer upper)
04383542 (SPRING, p/brake shoe retainer lower)
04383543 (CLIP, p/brake shoe hold down)
There a 4 numbers for the shoes. One factory and three aftermarket-
04383539 (NUT , p/brake adj)
There are 4 different bracket (called adapter) numbers, some come with the
ABS sensor, some don't. You would have to check at the dealer for the correct
one (you DON'T need the sensor, since you're still using the Cavalier bearing
with the sensor built in)
04762684 (ADAPTER, rear wheel disc brake with sensor mount)
04762685 (ADAPTER, rear wheel disc brake with sensor mount)
04762686 (ADAPTER, rear wheel disc brake with sensor mount)
04762687 (ADAPTER, rear wheel disc brake with sensor mount)
04238733 (PIN, rear wheel brake shoe hold down)
04238721 (PLUG, rear wheel brake adj hole)
Two numbers for the park brake lever. I'm not sure whch one is which. I'm
guessing the 8113 is left.
04728112 (LEVER and LINK ASSEMBLY, p/brake rear wheel, right)
04728113 (LEVER and LINK ASSEMBLY, p/brake rear wheel)
04509503 (SCREW, rear wheel p/brake adj)
Two for the backing plate/shield, again, I'm guessing the second one is left)
04728110 (SHIELD, rear wheel disc brake, right)
04628111 (SHIELD, rear wheel disc brake)
04723981 (SCREW and WASHER, shield to adapter)
Three different cable numbers. My guess is that some of them are for sedans,
and some are for coupes.
04509633 (CABLE ASSEMBLY, p/brake rear, w/or w/o ABS)
05273636 (CABLE ASSEMBLY, p/brake rear, w/or w/o ABS) (this is the one I used)
04446981 (CABLE ASSEMBLY, p/brake rear, w/or w/o ABS)
You also need the balancer/equalizer piece, but it nots available on its own,
its only available with the entire lever assembly.
04509637 (LEVER ASSEMBLY, p/brake)
I didn't list the caliper or any of that hardware.
These are all Mopar numbers. I would definetely make sure of what you're ordering before you actually order it. The dealer will be able to tell you exactly what you need. You're much better off buying all this from a salvage yard though, it will be much, much cheaper.
You also need to work out the plumbing. I got all my stuff from Pegasus Auto
I used pre-made hoses available in many different lengths and end configurations- hoses.
I also used some adapters as well- adapter.
The Neon caliper uses a 7/16" banjo bolt, this is the fitting I used- banjo fitting.
To start, remove all the J body hardware (drum, shoes, bearing, backing plate, park brake cables, etc). (There has already been talk of using the factory J park brake cables with the Neon caliper brackets. I have no idea if this will work, so please donít ask. Try it and find out.)
You will need to figure out the brake plumbing. This is entirely up to you. Some info- the Neon uses a 7/16Ē banjo bolt, so your options are pretty open. I used these braided lines and these banjo fittings. At the unibody side, I used this adapter to get back to hard bent.
Some other options- Use the Neon hose and adapter from the salvage yard Install the adapter I used on the axle and use a shorter braided line or, something entirely different, the options are pretty unlimited here.
Park brake cables
You will need to run the park brake cables. I purchased new cables from Mopar. They are part #05273636 (2 reqíd). There are 3 different cables available, Iím guessing for the sedan and coupe variants, but Iím not positive. The cables I used were the perfect length for 2nd gens. As I mentioned earlier, there is one other swap I know of using another Chrysler disc setup with the 2nd gen J cables (88ragtop).
Neon cable pictured below.
I drilled a 1Ē hole for the cable grommet to go into. The grommet does move on the cable, and there is a little clamp holding it in place. It was in the perfect spot and I didnít have to move it for my car.
This is the balancer from the Neon. It is not available from the dealer without buying the entire park brake handle, so get it at the yard.
You will need to build a bracket to hold the cable ends. I used ĹĒ steel angle iron.
I had to shorten the arm on the Cavalier lever to take up the slack since I couldnít move the bracket any farther to the rear.
You need to have the Neon caliper brackets machined. This can be done at home, provided you take your time and make sure the center hole is dead on. I had it done at a machine shop for $60.
Pictured are the Neon caliper brackets before machining.
You will need to have the center hole reamed out and the four bearing bolt holes drilled, as well as some clearance cuts made. This is what it should look like after machining.
Assembling this is not much more difficult than replacing the wheel bearing. The factory bearing bolts can be used with no issues. Itís a tiny bit more difficult to get them in with the park brake shoes on, but they fit. Once youíve got the bearing bolted up, you need to figure out a way to shim the rotor out so it doesnít rub on the backing plate/dust shield. I used a 1/16Ē thick washer on each stud until I get some plates made to fit. I thought about this problem for awhile. You could space the bearing away from the caliper bracket, but that would leave even less thread on the bearing bolts. It is only about 1/16Ē, so Iíll leave the decision up to you, but the rotor DOES need to come away from the plate, or it will drag.
Heres some shots of the finished assembly.
I think the best thing about this is that all the wear and tear items can be directly replaced (rotor, caliper, pads, bearing) with factory or aftermarket parts.
Iím pretty sure Iíve covered all the bases for this. Any questions- post away, but please read the entire thing first.