65mm TB's for cheap

isaachayes · Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:42 pm Post subject:

Today I picked up some new bolts for my TB. The 3 bolts that hold it to the adapter that is. I got some flange bolts because the normal ones kept sliding too far into my socket to push them in and thread. I had to hand start them and that was hard on the bottom. Much easier to use a 1/4" socket and extension and start them by hand with that. Then I swung by the guy that helped me re-cover my headliner and low-and-behold he had a spare 3100 cable bracket laying around. So now I can put it on this weekend if bending the 3100 bracket is satisfactory.

Just need to swing by autozone or somewhere and see about 45* pipe and couplers to replace the stock air-tube since it's too long and you can't cut it shorter. That or find a OBDII 3100 car and snag that piece since it's shorter for the MAF (but I have no MAF) and that might fit and look stock. But that requires a special trip to the junkyard that charges an arm and a leg.

isaachayes · Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:44 pm Post subject:

Fallen, where are you??

fallenz24 · Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:09 pm Post subject:

isaachayes · Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:12 pm Post subject:

Looks like I may have it on before you show pics of how you did it!

forced_firebird · Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:06 pm Post subject:

isaachayes · Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 1:01 pm Post subject:

Come this weekend, I will have pics.

fallenz24 · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 4:43 pm Post subject:

Here's the pics. Sorry it took so long to post them. In the pics you can see the bolt in the top that I added. All you have to do is cut the bracket down and hammer it flat...then drill a hole the bracket big enough for the bolt your using. Then you the appropriate sized hole in the tb and tap it out to whatever size bolt you're using. I used a m8X1.25 bolt with a lock washer. It is all very easy and quick to do.

Good luck with it Isaac.

-Joseph

isaachayes · Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:12 pm Post subject:

Ok I see, you tapped the part where the throttle stop is. Did you seal off that tube right there that you flattened/mangled? That goes to the fresh air side of the TB (pre vacuum).

I'm going to attempt to bend the top of the bracket forward, and back around and bolt it to the top bolt that mounts the TB. I think it will work. I'll have my blow torch to help bend it. We'll see. I don't own any taps or decent drill bits. Well I do have a 1/4" NPT tap LOL.

Today was pouring rain, kind of sucks can't do anything or go out. Sad

Hopefully tomorrow won't be a downpour and it won't be too hot or muggy.

BTW, I don't see any silcone between the valve cover and intake manifold notch there.

isaachayes · Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:50 pm Post subject:

Yesterday I had at it. I really need a damn TIG welder. My friend that welds said he could do what I needed no problem, but he has family over from London this week. argh!!!

I had planned to weld this piece of stainless sheet metal (only scrap steel I had lying around) to the bracket and that would go up to the top bolt of the TB.

I could get a drill bit and tap for the TB, and may go that route...depends how impatient I get.

barry · Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:53 pm Post subject:

My welder has bailed me out countless times. I love it.

fallenz24 · Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:46 am Post subject:

isaachayes · Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 6:49 pm Post subject:

I got the TB bracket welded up, with a piece of stainless to bolt it up with. The stainless metal was the only scrap I had, and actually I bent a different piece which bolts to the stock bracket bolt hole that is tapped already instead. My friend TIG'ed it up with 304 SS rod. It looks nice, I'll get photos when I can. I've been super busy this week, and it's been raining all day long for the past several days. I also have a 45* black silicone coupler that UPS just dropped off, and 2 more straight couplers, a straight and 90* aluminum piece coming. I may just make a CAI after all if I get another 90* bend. Although I do like the stock air box as it keeps the filter cleaner and works well and looks STOCK or more professional. (Seems like all the ricers have a CAI and that's it) A CAI goes against my "factory performance" look, but I think I'll paint the pipes black and it might look ok. I have a 3.5"x7" K&N that fits in the fender well nicely but it will get nasty dirty in winter.

I may use the LX5 TB's breather tube. I will probably get a spare rear breather tube and run some hose from that to the TB like the LSx does. That way I don't have to cut a hole in my nice new Helix 45* silicone coupler.

isaachayes · Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:03 pm Post subject:

Getting ready:

Here is the modified 3100/3400 bracket:

I used the stock 3500 PCV hold down since the TB cable bracket no longer will do this. I had to grind it a bit to clear the TB adapter and then secured it with a hex cap screw to clear the tube that goes off of it to the EVAP purge (3500 doesn't have that extra tube coming off of there):

I got the cruise working. I have aftermarket cruise that has a ball-chain end. I just un-hooked the stock end on it (and saved it), bent some thick steel wire over, and over again, slid it through the ball chain coupler, slide a wire terminal over that, and crimped it down, and then folded over the excess wire as back up if it slides. Then wrapped some telephone single strand wire to keep the wire terminal from coming off. When you go WOT, the wire curves down but doesn't seem to hurt anything or bind or get in the way.

Air cleaner tube is crushed/smooched. I need a new coupler I can cut to length, or build a CAI:

Few things left to do or tidy up cause I'm a perfectionist:
1) Have the bracket TIG'ed a little more for the top bolt tab so the 3 bends are all filled solid and don't flex any when you jerk on the bracket (probably ok, but I want it solid)
2) Cap or use the extra vacuum ports on the TB. (1 capped one taped) I'm thinking I'll loose the vacuum T and run the FPR off the TB and just the trans/vac-ball off the manifold. The other will stay capped and eventually go to a vacuum gauge.
3) Black wire to retain the cruise clip instead of orange haha.
4) Cap the breather port (instead of tape) or run the rear valve cover hose to it with an elbow and rubber hose so it looks good. (then I can do any intake without a hole for it)
5) Air filter coupler... yeah it's smashed. I need a new silicone piece if it fits, or do some sort of CAI. Still figuring that one out.

I ran into a bad TPS on the TB... It was late (started on it late too) and I had to have the car ready for work and the idle was sky high. Ran and hooked up my laptop with my ScannerPro definition, and the TPS was reading 3% throttle closed and would read 100% at about 75% throttle... haha Changed it out with the TB on the car with a spare one from a grand am TB and all was good. Fired up TunerPro and read the MALF codes, one history for high TPS voltage. Yup. Cleared it and went for a drive with Scanner Pro running in sensor scan mode...

(EDIT: It's late I'll fill in my thoughts on driving it. But I like it after all. Helps in several areas and aspects).

isaachayes · Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:43 pm Post subject:

I do feel a gain at WOT. Easiest way I noticed is on the highway going WOT the car moves much faster. I don't know if this is due to the motor needing the extra air or that there is less turbulence since it's not going from 52mm to 65mm opening anymore. When I had a 56mm on over the 52mm I did not notice any difference in power.

The 65m also just seems to help out cruising. Yes there is more air now per throttle angle, but before when it was stock, you would give it gas up say a hill, and the motor would bog, give it more gas, same thing, then it would downshift and pull. Now it will pull up the hill with less throttle and not have to downshift. So I guess the motor was not bogging, but just not getting enough air, and that the stock downshift points were set maybe too soon.

Since the large port lower and 3500 plenum swap with the 52mm TB it seemed to stop accelerating harder from 70-100%. Something you think a larger TB would do. With the 65mm now it feels I have more resolution. I can go from 70-100 and it pulls harder when I snap it open fully.

Granted this is all un-tuned and maybe some of the bad points of the 52mm could have been tuned out after the large intake swaps, but the 65mm addition seems to help that stuff.

The motor sounds more "healthy" now too. Before it sounded higher pitched, and just nasty the whole RPM range, like it was really under load. Now it has a more smoother and less harsh/loud "larger" motor sound, even at WOT.

I do notice that off the line torque seems to be less, as I can't light up the tires from a stop like I used to. But it seems to take off faster off the line... ???? I guess I have less torque but more HP down low now. Is this possible? (I'm assuming tuning could help this as well though). Before it would spin them and then slowly take off and then start going. Now it just takes off and pull you back from the start smoothly, instead of going slow then pulling you back later. I'm guessing over all torque isn't that much lower (or isn't shifted too higher) as I can pull hills that required downshifting previously.

More and more as the ECM adjusts it seems to feel more like stock. Or I'm used to it. It's by no means too touchy. It actually feels more like other cars I've drove.

Also I noticed I no longer feel the TB wanting to close on it's own. Let me explain. Before at certain RPM/Loads/Temps/etc I could be pressing on the pedal and feel it get stiffer. At those times the motor was really responsive when you cracked past that position. This makes me think that the motor was pulling air so hard at this point that it was pulling on the bottom of the plate with the air flow or the air flow was hitting there hard, wanting to push it closed. To me that sounds like a bottle neck if it's trying to suck that hard through the small TB opening that the velocity is that high there.... I don't get that anymore with the 65mm, or at least haven't felt it yet.

phenolic · Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:17 pm Post subject:

Just buy a silicone 45* (guesstimating from the picture) in black/red/blue (w/e floats your boat) and cut it to length. Still will look stock and fit better.

	V6Z24.com Forum Index -> J-Body Performance	All times are CST (U.S./Canada) Goto page Previous 1, 2, 3 ... 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Next
Page 10 of 14

Registry Login