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Engine Pull
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moonwell Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 12:24 am    Post subject: Engine Pull Reply with quote

Discussion relating to the following How-to:
http://www.v6z24.com/howto/enginepull

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mars_man Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a dumb question...

Moon, don't you have to remove the struts to get the axles out? I tried just popping the ball joint, (not very hard I must admit), but I thought it couldn't be done?

My alignment right now is PERFECT, lol, and I gotta take my engine out soon. Would be nice if I didnt have to mess with the camber bolts.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mars_man wrote:
Just a dumb question...

Moon, don't you have to remove the struts to get the axles out? I tried just popping the ball joint, (not very hard I must admit), but I thought it couldn't be done?

My alignment right now is PERFECT, lol, and I gotta take my engine out soon. Would be nice if I didnt have to mess with the camber bolts.

Thanks!


How are you supposed to replace the ball joint then?

I ALWAYS seperate the ball joint from teh knuckle to remove the axle(s).

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mars_man Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Six_Shooter wrote:
mars_man wrote:
Just a dumb question...

Moon, don't you have to remove the struts to get the axles out? I tried just popping the ball joint, (not very hard I must admit), but I thought it couldn't be done?

My alignment right now is PERFECT, lol, and I gotta take my engine out soon. Would be nice if I didnt have to mess with the camber bolts.

Thanks!


How are you supposed to replace the ball joint then?

I ALWAYS seperate the ball joint from teh knuckle to remove the axle(s).


Sorry Chris,

I must be tired, that wasn't my question, worded it wrong. Lemme try again...

In the how to, Moon says nothing about removing the 2 camber bolts... (the alignment bolts, from the strut to the knuckle)

Don't they have to be removed so that the whole strut can be removed THEN you get onto removing the axles?

I didn't think you could remove the axle from the hub without seperating the knuckle from the strut?

Hope that makes more sense.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mars_man wrote:
Six_Shooter wrote:
mars_man wrote:
Just a dumb question...

Moon, don't you have to remove the struts to get the axles out? I tried just popping the ball joint, (not very hard I must admit), but I thought it couldn't be done?

My alignment right now is PERFECT, lol, and I gotta take my engine out soon. Would be nice if I didnt have to mess with the camber bolts.

Thanks!


How are you supposed to replace the ball joint then?

I ALWAYS seperate the ball joint from teh knuckle to remove the axle(s).


Sorry Chris,

I must be tired, that wasn't my question, worded it wrong. Lemme try again...

In the how to, Moon says nothing about removing the 2 camber bolts... (the alignment bolts, from the strut to the knuckle)

Don't they have to be removed so that the whole strut can be removed THEN you get onto removing the axles?

I didn't think you could remove the axle from the hub without seperating the knuckle from the strut?

Hope that makes more sense.

Thanks


AHH ha...

Thilly Wabbit...

You don't need or even want to remove those bolts. Just seperate the ball joint from the knuckle and swing the strut and knuckle assembly out of the way, sometimes it will be easier if you disconnect the tie-rod end or remove the brake caliper (if you's is mounted towards the front of the car.

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mars_man Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent.
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moonwell Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like six took care of your question.

But I might have left out some other details of the removal, since I just threw that how-to together from memory. FYI, It makes it easier to pop the ball joints if you unbolt the swaybar endlinks. You'll need a 5' pipe to pry the control arm down if you don't

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i usually dont touch the ball joint, just take the control arm and strut tower off as one. seems to be pretty easy.
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ziggo_2 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

somebody help me i copied this from the how-to. i think someone was confused when they wrote it.

Quote:
Depending on the year of 5 speed transmission, the slave cylinder setup is different. There are 2 styles of external, and an internal slave. External was used through 92, internal 93-94. If you have an internal slave, there is a quick disconnect that disconnects the line from the slave. If an internal, the slave is just unbolted from the trans and pulled out. If you have an internal slave, it can be ruined if the clutch pedal is depressed while the slave is out of the transmission. So it might be a good idea to disconnect the clutch pedal just to ensure an accident doesn't happen. Pressing the pedal on an internal slave model with it disconnected won't ruin anything, but it will spew fluid and possibly get air into the system that you'll have to bleed out later.


sombody translate.

on a side note- moon (or anybody) fix this so nobody else has the confusion. please, thanks
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moonwell Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better?

Depending on the year of 5 speed transmission, the slave cylinder setup is different. There are 2 styles of external slaves as well as an internal slave. External slaves were used through '92, while internal slaves were used in '93 & '94. If you have an internal slave, there is a quick disconnect fitting that disconnects the line from the slave. On the external modelsl, the slave is just unbolted from the trans and pulled out. External slaves can be ruined if the clutch pedal is depressed while the slave is out of the transmission. So it might be a good idea to disconnect the clutch pedal just to ensure an accident doesn't happen. Pressing the pedal on an internal slave model with it disconnected won't ruin anything, but it will spew fluid and possibly get air into the system that you'll have to bleed out later.

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mitch909 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm finding your How-to really helpful... However this axle business isn't explained with much detail at all, thus I'm stuck with pretty much everything ready for the engine to come out except the drive axles. I have the 30mm nut off between the hub and thats as far as I got. I don't want to start popping things off when I don't know exactly the parts your meaning. any help would be really sweet.

Thanks Mitch
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pop the lower ball joint, out of the Hub assembly, remove the outer tie rod from the hub assembly. remove the subframe bolts from the a-arms push the a-arm down, swing the strut out, and away from the axle, * u may need a hammer to get the axle out, use a center punch of a block of wood, or u will f up the threads. and there ya go.
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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 1:33 am    Post subject: Great Reply with quote

This was awesome. I did everything according to this, before I read this. Then I found this website and did it right. HAHA. Anyway it was a hell of a time but I got it out. Thanks for all of the information in this how-to.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:35 pm    Post subject: Question Reply with quote

I already used the search so don't burn me on this question.
Ok So here is the deal I bought another 92 Cavy 2 door coupe and it's the 4 cyl variety. I also bought a 88 Camaro coupe for parts recently it was a 6 cyl lb8.

OK now for the question I am 90% sure the mounting points on the engine are the same as the LB6 so if I am going to pull the dinky 4 cyl out and drop in the 6 cyl do I need to fabricate some engine mounts / mounting brackets, buy them or be crap outta luck? OR are the the same for the 4 cyl, I already got a trans worked out.

And if I miraculously figure out how to fit a turbo in the engine bay will the stock engine mounts work or will I need to get some performance ones?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Camaro engine is a gen1 RWD motor, it has different mounting bosses, opposite starter location and other differences.


It will not work in a FWD Jbody.

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