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Heater Core Replacement
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moonwell Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 9:58 pm    Post subject: Heater Core Replacement Reply with quote

Discussion relating to the following How-to:
http://www.v6z24.com/howto/heatercore

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gman Gender:Male
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1992 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 4:09 am    Post subject: Heater Core Reply with quote

How does one BURP an engine properly if the system has an expansion tank?
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jakerooni Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

leave the rad cap off for a few minutes while it gets up to operating temps.
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darkknight Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually there is a bleed valve above the thermostat. You just loosen it a bit and out comes any air.
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gearhead Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2004 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay seriously, this is NOT as easy as you portray. You have no idea how ridiculously frustrated i am after following the directions in this repair and how bad they have guided me through this. One question.. how do i fit the new bloody heater core's metal lines through the firewall it makes NO sense!!! please help me!
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nathan Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2004 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

they should just go right through the holes in the firewall. take a look at the original and make sure the lines are turned the same way on the new one. sometimes you have to adjust/rotate the metal lines to line them up with the holes. it can be a difficult job, but almost every step i can think of is in there. good luck!
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2004 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have got to be kidding me. That has got to be the most no brainer question I've ever heard asked on here. There's only 1 possible way the metal lines can fit. There's absoultly no way you can mess it up. If they don't fit then you have the wrong damn heater core.
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King_Koopa Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2004 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that it's more of the way they fit in there. If they aren't going in one direction, flip the core around and try to make it go in the othr direction. I haven't done it in a LONG while so I couldn't tell you which way it's supposed to go in.
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richarmj Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2004 11:25 am    Post subject: My Experience Reply with quote

I'm halfway through the replacement on my '88 Z24 and there's a couple notes I'd like to make.

I didn't find any 7/32 screws on the entire removal. They were all 9/32 (which I think are technically 7mm). There are 2 pieces to remove to get to the cover, neither of which necessitate opening the glovebox. One is directly beneath the glove box. The other is immediately behind the stereo. From this piece there are a couple of hoses that go to the vents that you need to disconnect.

Also, be very careful before you try to remove the cover. There are 2 recessed, hidden screws. One of them is a real b!^(# to get out. If you do not remove these screws you will be very likely to crack the casing.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 12:20 pm    Post subject: Re: My Experience Reply with quote

richarmj wrote:
I'm halfway through the replacement on my '88 Z24 and there's a couple notes I'd like to make.

I didn't find any 7/32 screws on the entire removal. They were all 9/32 (which I think are technically 7mm). There are 2 pieces to remove to get to the cover, neither of which necessitate opening the glovebox. One is directly beneath the glove box. The other is immediately behind the stereo. From this piece there are a couple of hoses that go to the vents that you need to disconnect.

Also, be very careful before you try to remove the cover. There are 2 recessed, hidden screws. One of them is a real b!^(# to get out. If you do not remove these screws you will be very likely to crack the casing.

i know what your talking about, there is 1 screw at the bottom of ther case right at the fire wall... how the hell are you suppose to get that one out??? i'm using a 7 mm socket, and the socket on the ratchet is too short, but an extension is too long... i dunno how the hell i'm gonna get it out... 20 min job MY ASS!

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richarmj Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a 7mm "deep socket" to remove it. You're right, the 3 in. extension is too long, but you can't get to it with a regular socket. The deep socket was about 1.5-2 in. long and worked pretty well.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i found a diff way, got one of those lil extension thingys that go from 3/8 to 1/4, it actually worked
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK guys you really need to think before you jump into things. One a deep well socket will solve most of your issues. Or a swivel. You're making things much harder on yourselves. It shouldn't need to be said that things go much easier with the right tools.

And for the guy that stated that there we're no 7/32 screws I think you must've had a core replaced before and they switched up the screws. To write up the How too I replaced the heater core in Both my 94 and my 89 at the exact same time (to see if there we're going to be any differences between the phases) And both set ups we're identical. I went through step by step and noted them. I did both heater cores and took the pics and wrote up the how too all in under an hour. THIS IS NOT HARD!!!!!!!

If there's anything on this how to that you would like explained better or see a better pic of PM me and I'll go out and snap a few pics and try to explain it better. But as far as I can tell this is as straight forward as it gets I can't think of anything else to add to it.
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sask_cruiser Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well yesterday i finally found sumthin to use to get the screw out, i had to get one of those extension thingys that go from 3/8 to 1/4 so i could use a 3/8 ratchet with a 7mm socket and it made it just long enough to reach the screw and not too long so that it hit the floor preventing it from not going in stright... that screw is put in there so stupid even when i got the socket on the screw, it was still pretty friggin hard
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much different is it for a PH-2 ?

I'm gonna do mine this weekend...




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