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If you want to remove ABS

 
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pezed Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:01 pm    Post subject: If you want to remove ABS Reply with quote

Heres how you have to rebend the lines (use a good tubing bender and you need to get a bubble flare tool(they can be found on ebay for $20)).
you need a master cylinder off a non-abs J and the fittings also (junkyard $10)



Yes i still need to remove the ABS wiring!
It leaves a nice hole in the firewall for an air intake from the cowl!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya know u dont need top remove the ABS master. I pulled the ABS module and the harness to the master, and it works just fine without it.
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pezed Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

burn wrote:
ya know u dont need top remove the ABS master. I pulled the ABS module and the harness to the master, and it works just fine without it.


Thats true. BUT: i've been told the pistons inside the ABS module will move over time and cause braking problems. But overall this is worthwhile. It makes bleeding the brakes 100% faster and my brake pedal is so much harder now. when i press the brakes its like there is a block of wood behind it. it moves about an inch and stops. I like it. (btw ive been running like this for about 6 months. the master cylinder im using is off a sunbird sedan. The part number is the same, but the ABS master cylinder ports aren't threaded for the lines to screw in, the abs module just bolts to it with O-rings between it and the MC)

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:32 pm    Post subject: Re: If you want to remove ABS Reply with quote

pezed wrote:
Heres how you have to rebend the lines (use a good tubing bender and you need to get a bubble flare tool


I like that. Bubble... double.... same thing...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 10:36 pm    Post subject: Re: If you want to remove ABS Reply with quote

unknownz24 wrote:
pezed wrote:
Heres how you have to rebend the lines (use a good tubing bender and you need to get a bubble flare tool


I like that. Bubble... double.... same thing...


Actually no, a double flare and bubble flare are completely different.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: If you want to remove ABS Reply with quote

pezed wrote:
unknownz24 wrote:
pezed wrote:
Heres how you have to rebend the lines (use a good tubing bender and you need to get a bubble flare tool


I like that. Bubble... double.... same thing...


Actually no, a double flare and bubble flare are completely different.


Hmm, what do you know!? They are different Ah well, fun while it lasted

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whenever my abs pisses me off i just unplug it, plug it back in when i feel like, this way the pistons in the master reset everytime you start the car when its plugged in so i don't need to worry about braking problems, plus i have a spare abs master and computer in my garage
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

or get a car w/o it
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pezed wrote:
burn wrote:
ya know u dont need top remove the ABS master. I pulled the ABS module and the harness to the master, and it works just fine without it.


Thats true. BUT: i've been told the pistons inside the ABS module will move over time and cause braking problems. But overall this is worthwhile. It makes bleeding the brakes 100% faster and my brake pedal is so much harder now. when i press the brakes its like there is a block of wood behind it. it moves about an inch and stops. I like it. (btw ive been running like this for about 6 months. the master cylinder im using is off a sunbird sedan. The part number is the same, but the ABS master cylinder ports aren't threaded for the lines to screw in, the abs module just bolts to it with O-rings between it and the MC)


I removed mine like 4 years ago when I swapped my 3.1L in. Ive never had any kind of problem like that. if you have a 92+ you should use the master from the 92 because the 91- (non ABS) use smaller rotors. The 92+ (with ABS) is designed for the larger front rotors. If you want to go to a non-ABS master, you should get one from a newer olds alero.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres a pic of how has been for like the last 4 years... ive never had a problem:


master_cylinder.jpg
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master_cylinder.jpg



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

burn wrote:
pezed wrote:
burn wrote:
ya know u dont need top remove the ABS master. I pulled the ABS module and the harness to the master, and it works just fine without it.


Thats true. BUT: i've been told the pistons inside the ABS module will move over time and cause braking problems. But overall this is worthwhile. It makes bleeding the brakes 100% faster and my brake pedal is so much harder now. when i press the brakes its like there is a block of wood behind it. it moves about an inch and stops. I like it. (btw ive been running like this for about 6 months. the master cylinder im using is off a sunbird sedan. The part number is the same, but the ABS master cylinder ports aren't threaded for the lines to screw in, the abs module just bolts to it with O-rings between it and the MC)


I removed mine like 4 years ago when I swapped my 3.1L in. Ive never had any kind of problem like that. if you have a 92+ you should use the master from the 92 because the 91- (non ABS) use smaller rotors. The 92+ (with ABS) is designed for the larger front rotors. If you want to go to a non-ABS master, you should get one from a newer olds alero.


Not true the ABS and non-abs master cylinders are the same bore size and the same GM part #, the ABS model just doesn't have the bottom ports threaded.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 6:04 pm    Post subject: Bubble, Double who cares.................. Reply with quote

I know this guy.......... just used some good compression fittings and they have worked fine for a long time. Just keep em out of sight and no one will know the difference.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Compression fittings on brake lines are one of the worst ideas ever. Even if it has lasted a long time, it was still the cheap, easy way out, and does have its consequences.
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