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ignition Coil??
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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:33 pm    Post subject: ignition Coil?? Reply with quote

Hey fellas. Ok I'm still having idle & acceleration issues. Here's what I've addressed for those who aren't familiar. Fuel injectors r @ 12.5 ohms or better, brand new O2 sensor, redid all faulty vacuum lines my mechanic broke. Thoroughly cleaned the throttle body, egr, & plenum. Brand new map sensor. After idling 4 approx 2-3 mins car acts like it wants 2 shut off. After I pull off and come 2 a stop, I go to pull off again and I have to keep pumping gas to accelerate. I have no clue how 2 check or replace ignition coil pack (my barber's educated guess standing nxt to car as it rough idled) he had a beretta w/ same engine same issue. Anyone have the patience to direct me how to check the ignition coil pack out. If not it's off 2 pep boys to pay an arm & a leg. Thanks in advance.
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racer91 Gender:Male
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1994 Cavalier RS
1991 Sunbird LE

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa062902f.htm
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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks racer91! Once it stops raining I'll give it a shot.
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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, pulled coil packs out (bracket & all) anyone know what a working coil pack should read on meter?
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racer91 Gender:Male
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1994 Cavalier RS
1991 Sunbird LE

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coil pack testing

Materials needed: Voltmeter, 5.5 mm socket.

1)Remove the ignition coil from the ignition module. Each coil is held on by (2) 5.5 mm bolts.

2)There are 2 values to check. They are the primary resistance and secondary resistance. To test the primary resistance flip the coil to the back and set your voltmeter to test for ohms. The resistance value should be between 0.2 ohms and 2.0 ohms.

3)Secondary resistance is tested by measuring the resistance between the coil posts on the coil. The resistance should be between 4,000 and 7,000 ohms. If the coils primary and secondary resistances test with these specs the coil should be good.

Ignition Module Testing

Materials needed: voltmeter

These directions are assuming the module is still on the car and all wiring harnesses are connected.

1)The first step to testing the ignition module is to see if the ignition module is getting power. Probe the power terminal to check for power. This is done by checking the harness with 2 wires. One wire is black and white (ground) and the other is red I believe. The power wire should register battery voltage. If not check the wiring and grounds for a fault or short.

2)Next you check to see if the coils are receiving a pulsating voltage signal from the ignition module. Install a test light to the positive terminal of the battery and touch the tip of the light to the ignition coil terminal. Have someone crank the engine and observe the test light. It should blink for each firing voltage signal. This will show that the ignition module is sending a primary voltage signal to the coil packs. If it doesn’t your module is bad.

Did you replace The Plugs and wires? u replace your IAC? looks like this



i would try changing all the sensors and maybe the ECU. heres a list of the sensors on the engine

http://www.v6z24.com/howto/locations

is this car a automatic>?

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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tested all other sensors and replaced faulty ones. Plugs & wires are due for change. Just needed to eliminate the ignition coils from the equation. Ecm is fine. So is IAC. Thanks for coil pack info! Checking in my living room now, lol.
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racer91 Gender:Male
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1994 Cavalier RS
1991 Sunbird LE

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dude yeah i just replaced all of my spark plugs/wires today my car runs really good now. the back ones suck to get out haha. look at ur spark plugs and post what they look like.

Did u check ur compression?

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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plugs are ashey (carbon deposits). I think when my mechanic replaced the engine he just reused some old plugs (azz munch!) Compression is also fine.
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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok did the coil tests. All 3 coils r cool (saved money on that one!) Ok, soon as I get paid it's off to buy new plugs & wires. Yes the 3 in the rear were a m-f'er to remove! Geez! Thanks 4 the knowledge racer91. U ever need a discount on vacation arrangements hit me up (travel agent). I owe u.
John.

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1988 Cavalier Z24
1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible
1991 Cavalier Z24

PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ICM can still be screwed. They are a pain in the ass that way.
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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a question but if the resistance of each of the iac terminals reads @ least 20 ohms could it still be the issue? I haven't switched it out yet because it reads on my meter that it's within operating range (20 ohms or better). I have a 93 Z24 parts car that only had damaged pistons. Swapped out fuel rail w/ fpr and car still has rough idle/ trouble accelerating. Shooting
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sconartoo
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1992 Sunbird SE Convertible

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's possible the IAC could be a problem. I found out the hard way. When cleaning mine I pushed the plunger in and it messes everything up. The computer memorizes the IAC's position and if it changes, everything is messed, will run like crap. If you replace it, there is a procedure to follow for a new IAC. I think it's in the how to's. Your's could be stuck even tho' your getting ohm readings.
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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is so frustrating fellas. I bought a new iac and still had issues with rough idle/hesitation. And now 4 some reason my tps needs to be adjusted?? I didn't even touch it! Shooting
I'm reading my haynes manual on how to reset the tps. Supposed to use a voltmeter but it's confusing, and I'll look n2 how to set the pindle on the iac (book says it's supposed 2 be extended out 1-1/8" as 2 not damage the inside of iac valve). Pep Boys wants $103 to run a full diagnostic. If I can't solve this issue in 2 wks I'm gonna have 2 bite that bullet. Thanks for tips sconartoo

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dud you do an idle relearn after replaceing those parts?
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dajiza Gender:Male
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1989 Cavalier Z24 Convertible

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ummmm, no. will that reset the tps? Probably not, thought I'd still ask.
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