Oil pump drive shaft o-ring replacement

moonwell

Discussion relating to the following How-to:
http://www.v6z24.com/howto/oring

jonathan · Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 12:53 pm Post subject:

That is definitely a good "How-to"! I changed my oil pump driveshaft O-ring a couple weeks ago, and the only hard part is getting the shaft to line up with the oil pump, which took me 30 mins to get the shaft to sit flush. But the how to was a big help!

ematt01 · Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 7:06 pm Post subject:

Will I have to buy the O-ring from the GM dealer or can i go to a place like auto zone and buy one ?

-Matt

etnieslabel · Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 8:00 pm Post subject:

I bought one from autozone but it didnt really fit right so I went to the dealer, might as well anyways, you'll know it's a perfect fit and it's only pocket change for the o-ring.

Brad91Z · Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2004 11:21 pm Post subject:

I found that at my autozone, the workers there have no idea what they are doing. They didn't know what I was talking about.

I found that the fel-pro lower intake manifold kits come with the o-ring. So when I rebuilt the top ends on my 1992 and 1993 Z24's I just used those O-rings from the kit.

Brad

hypsy · Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2004 9:39 am Post subject:

i think this is the same thing that leaked on PhkZ24's car. Its also know as the dummy shaft if it is the same thing

moonwell · Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 5:26 pm Post subject:

I had to replace the o-ring on my '92 today I took some pics to add to this how-to, since it didn't have any pics of the processes.

Brad91Z · Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 8:46 pm Post subject:

You had the 92 out??

Brad

pezed · Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 8:16 pm Post subject:

For you not wanting to go to the GM dealership, I got one from advance auto parts for $0.98. Just ask for the distributor shaft o-ring. I've had it in mine for a year now, no leaks. The stock one broke into pieces when i removed it.

glivorsi · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 8:07 pm Post subject:

I just did my o-ring replacement and thought I'd add some pointers that I think should be added to the How-To. This was on my '94 RSV6.

The Fel-Pro part number is 70800. It cost 95 cents and fits fine.

The tools needed are a 13MM socket and extension for the throttlebody and shaft clamp, a 10MM socket for the fuel line hold-down clamp, a screwdriver to remove the air intake tube, and a 16MM open-end or flare wrench to remove the fuel lines. Also grab plenty of paper towels for oil and fuel cleanup.

If your o-ring has been leaking there will be all sorts of grime and dirt accumulated around the shaft. Clean this off BEFORE you try to pull the shaft out. Otherwise some of this crap will fall into your engine when the shaft lets loose.

Put paper towels or sandwich bags over the open fuel lines while your working. It's alot easier to do this than pull injectors apart because you got some dirt in the fuel lines.

To pull the shaft out grab the lip on the outer diameter of the shaft. I was trying to grab across the whole diameter of the shaft- doesn't work. The how-to actually says to grab the lip, I just didn't understand what that meant. Once you have a hold of it, pull up on it. If it doesn't pull out with a gentle tug, twist in either direction while pulling and it should pop right out.

Once you get the shaft out clean around the base where it fits. Some crud will likely fall onto this surface when the shaft is pulled and prevent it from seating completely. Also clean the clamp and shaft thoroughly, getting any grit out from inside the gear teeth.

I had trouble getting the shaft to go in the final 1/8" or so. I figured that the cam and oil pump were not synched up to mesh. I put the clamp on and tightened it somewhat. Then bumped the engine just a tap. This should rotate the shaft so it drops into the oil pump. Then I took the clamp back, wiggled the shaft a little and it dropped completely in. When bumping it put the key in, immediately turn it to start and right back to off. Leaving it in the run position will pump fuel out your open lines.

Since you just messed with the drive for the oil pump, verify that you have oil pressure when you get it back together.

kuruptsoul · Posted: Sat May 14, 2005 3:32 pm Post subject: !!

Mine was as hard as plastic

kgoerz

Just did mine today on my 2.8L. Same O-ring as the 3.1.

As you can see, it was leaking oil EVERYWHERE...

Thanks for posting this howto! Normally I wouldn't have tackled something like this myself, but it really worked out well, thanks to the helpful directions

The old O-Ring was still intact but hard and brittle.

Had to 'bump' the engine a tad (as per followup posted by glivorsi) to get everything reinserted all the way. I temporarily connected a length of hose to my open fuel lines which drained the gas into a bucket during this procedure to prevent a hazardous mess.

Thanks again!

jonn · Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 7:41 am Post subject: O ring

when i did my 2.8 with a new one from GM, i happened to have a paper thin flat gasket from some other project left over that fit perfect under/around top of dummy shaft lip, so i used it as well, double sealed now.

decyphex · Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:41 pm Post subject: Re: O ring

inition · Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:53 pm Post subject:

Six years later this thread is still helping people. I fixed the oil leak in my 93' Corsica that was driving me nuts. Did the coolant bypass too. I didn't have to cut the throttle body coolant hoses, I just griped them with channel locks (near each end of the hose, where I could still feel the metal pipe underneath) and twisted until they let loose. Thanks for listing the Fel-Pro Part #, I picked it up for 99? at Autozone. I'm going to wait till it warms up to degrease the engine and trans-axle, they are covered with grime. Thanks for the awesome write up.

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