Hybrid swap help

shadow · Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:38 am Post subject: Hybrid swap help

Hey, I just finished all the hybrid swap work but I still need to do the valve lash adjustment for Crane rollers I plan to do it with the engine running. The engine cranks but won't start, it's not sparking. Fuel is dumping in and the compression is good atleast in cylinder 2 but no sparky. I swapped to MSD coils on a different module during the hybrid swap so I thought they might be a problem and switched back to the original coils and module which I know were working fine before the swap. Well no luck, the 12v connector is reading power to the module in run mode as well so I must assume the ECM is not sending the signal to spark. So what are the possible causes of this? The only other things that were changed were I removed the IAC because my throttlebody choice doesn't have a place for one and I spliced it's own TPS wires to the ones on the car. If I spliced the wrong wires could a bad TPS signal cause the ECM to not spark? Or do I need to plug in the IAC? Any help is much appreciated I've been working on trying to get this thing to fire up for days now it's driving me nuts.

whitelightning2 · Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 12:16 pm Post subject:

are you sure the CPS is hooked up?

shadow · Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 2:00 pm Post subject:

I never touched the CPS and it was working fine before the swap. I didn't swap the front timing cover, it's the only part of the swap I decided not to do and found out the hard way that it's not just the coolant lines that are different on the front timing cover but it also won't fit the 3x00 power steering pump properly so being as lazy as I am I ground down that part of the front timing cover to fit the 3x00 power steering pump. So on a side note for future reference for others it's not just the coolant lines that make you need to change the front timing cover. I knew I had to use the newer power steering pump but I didn't know it wouldn't fit with the old timing cover I only read about the coolant lines being an issue. So anyways point being there's no reason for the CPS to suddenly be dead. Any other ideas? I'm wondering about my junkyard 3x00 FPR, if there's not enough fuel pressure would the gas not atomize enough? I would expect it would still run but just like crap right? I don't have a fuel pressure tester I guess I could get one if that's a possibility? I know gas is getting into the chamber though since I can smell it coming out the exhaust and if I crank for long enough you can even see some spill out the rear manifold exit (It's not hooked up to the exhaust yet)

shadow · Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 2:05 pm Post subject:

Well actually I should mention I tried arcing a plug to ground and saw nothing so before worrying about the gas being an issue I need to know why it's not sparking.

cobra17st · Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 2:49 pm Post subject:

shadow · Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:05 am Post subject:

Thanks for the help anyways I'm gonna make damn sure there's nothing wrong with the CPS. Yes of course all three connectors to the ICM are in. I know what the IAC is for but the car should still run without it just won't necessarily have the best idle well I can set that manually. As for the fuel hehe I meant actually measure the pressure. I know there is fuel and yeah how much pressure squirts out of there'll give you a rough idea but I'd like to know where it's really at. Basically what I was looking for is other than CPS possibilities for no spark signal but since no one has given one. I'm gonna take a closer look the other thing I should do is retrieve the code although I'm sure it's the IAC, maybe not or maybe it'll be the IAC and something else. Although my EGR is also just hangin around.

shadow · Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 3:45 pm Post subject:

OK this makes NO sense. I bought a set of noid lights and an in-line plug tester. I am getting spark and the injector is pulsing, compression is 180psi on the nose so why in the hell is it not firing? The plug wires are definately in the right order. So lets just confirm the injector harness cylinders 2 4 and 6 (front bank) are the dark blue wired injectors right and cylinders 1 3 and 5 (rear bank) are the green wired injectors? If that is correct than I don't understand how the engine can not be firing? Any ideas?

scott0999 · Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:52 pm Post subject:

is the ignition module bolted down? you have the cylinder numbers correct.

the injectors can actually be hooked up in any order, but you have the cylinder numbers correct (135 back, 246 front)

remember when the ignition module is in the stock 3400 location the coilpack order (looking at it) is reversed from the stock gen2 order. or where do you have the coilpacks anyways? lol

imthegr8_1 · Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:56 pm Post subject:

when you relocated the coils...did you cut the pink wire, and just splice it?...i did that..and couldnt fr the life of me get any spark...until i read somewhere that the injectors and the power wire for the ICM are somehow intertwined...and i ended up needing to hook the other side of the wire i cut, back into the power for the ICM as well

shadow · Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:18 pm Post subject:

I didn't relocate the coils because I needed the 3x00 coil location free to mount a custom throttle cable bracket. I have made certain that they are in the right order. I haven't cut or spliced anything except the TPS. The in-line tester is lighting up when cranking the engine. When cranking at about the end of each crank cycle it makes a click it never used to make.

shadow · Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:45 am Post subject:

So I wanted to check compression in all cylinders I had finished 2 and 4 which were both good. I go to do 6 and the damn starter gives out. It's making noise but not cranking the engine. So I guess we'll see if after I replace the starter if she fires up... But it leads me to think there's something causing resistance to the engine cranking. I now know I have spark in the correct order with fuel and compression but it still wasn't firing... exhaust valves staying shut? After I replace the starter I'm gonna watch the valves more closely get my brother to crank the engine over. Maybe I need to tighten the exhaust rockers down some to make sure they're opening.

shadow · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 5:13 pm Post subject:

I'm scared to ask but what does this most likely mean. The starter seems to be freely turning the engine now it doesn't crank a revolution it just keeps turning you can watch my RPM's go up to a few hundred on the tach. I thought the starter was making noise and not turning I went to swap a new starter in and it was doing the same thing, apparently it's turning it just keeps turning. What tells the starter to cycle and stop?

shadow · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 2:47 pm Post subject:

Well not that anyone seems to care but the starter mysteriously fixed itself the only thing I can figure is the solenoid wasn't engaging and the engine was not turning freely as I thought before. I could swear I saw the rockers moving through the windshield as the starter was making noise but didn't feel like it was turning anything no resistance and had no compression showing on the compression tester. I had to be mistaken it is working fine now and I swapped out the Crane's because I realize a huge mistake I made. I made clearance for the intake manifold and the pushrod guide plates. The mistake was I bought these off ebay listed as the narrowbody SBC roller rockers with 3/8" studs. The error in that item description was the 3/8. I was so giddy with excitement over my gold anodized beauties I didn't even notice when I installed them that the damn fulcrums were slightly larger than the studs they're 7/16" stud rockers. Also upon closer look I see the roller tips don't all align to the valve stems the valve train geometry would've been all FUBAR so I took them out and swapped in the 3x00 factory rockers. Now I have compression and spark and fuel yet she still isn't firing. I even tried purposely changing the order of the plugwires wrong from one coil to another just to see if someone else had rewired them. No difference. So I'm gonna take the injector rail off and crank her with the plugwires off and watch the injectors to see if they're actually working since I know I have fuel pressure at the rail and the noid light confirms injector pulse. I can't see how all of my injectors would suddenly not work however. It makes no damn sense. We'll see if they're actually injecting then what would the next possible cause be? fuel, spark, compression should be combustion.

shadow · Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 4:13 am Post subject:

Well again I could swear when I was mysteriously not getting any spark that the injectors were working, well they're not. They're getting pulsed according to the flashing noid light but they're not releasing any fuel and there is pressure at the rail and the fuel pump is energizing. I don't know how all of the 3.1 injectors died like that but they seem to have. Demagnetized somehow I don't know? Any how we'll see if she fires up with a fresh set of wrecking yard injectors.

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