Brake Ducting

bing · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:54 pm Post subject: Brake Ducting

Any of you guys have attempted it?

I bet our small brakes will heat up like no tomorrow if we track them, even with the 92+ upgrade

treeZ24 · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:39 pm Post subject:

modify a backing plate and make it work! the only hard part is ducting around the cv but its do-able.

barrok69 · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:53 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Ducting

whitelightning2 · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:04 pm Post subject:

I don't have a problem slowing down from 104+ at the track with the 92 upgrade.

MrPaulo · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:14 pm Post subject:

Dan (juicedz4) will jump in this thread. We've had numerous discussions about it.

Unless you are setting your car up for track use only, you really won't see any benefits from it.

FWIW Cross drilled rotors worked well for me, and did not fade whatsoever on the road course.

treeZ24 · Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:46 pm Post subject:

for any serious racing, autox, track days etc the brakes are just too small, brake ducting will help make the best of what you have.

its weird to think, when i was ordering my wilwood brakes the cross drilled were for more the aethetics and i was told if i was getting in to track days the solid rotors would be better as they have a higher heat capacity. besides which they are more money.

cahilj · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:08 am Post subject:

bing · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:52 am Post subject:

bing · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:57 am Post subject:

cahilj · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 4:29 pm Post subject:

If you're really interested in doing this, there are plenty of pieces and parts out there designed just for it. High-temp hose isn't too expensive, maybe $50 for 12 feet, which is more than enough to do it. You can even buy pre-made plates that bolt to the caliper bolts. The trick there is getting the airflow directed to the center of the rotor, since pointing it at the surface is a lost cause.

bing · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 4:34 pm Post subject:

hmmm why would pointing it at the rotor surface be a lost cause though?

treeZ24 · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 7:03 pm Post subject:

treeZ24 · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 7:06 pm Post subject:

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/brake_duct.htm

lots of good pictures of what you need to fab

bing · Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 12:35 pm Post subject:

thumbs · Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 7:34 am Post subject:

i believe the idea behind brake cooling is to make sure the fluid doesn't boil while in liquid form the fluid does not compress but if the fluid boils it turns to a gass hence you will have brake fade due to the compessing of the gas we use dot 3 brake fluid that is good to about 350 f. degree after that it turns to gas since brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbes water) if water gets into the fluid it will boil at a lower temp. water boils and turns into gas at about 212 degrees f.

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