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whitelightning2 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:40 pm    Post subject: Just my luck... Reply with quote

So after my 13.08 @ 105.5 MPH run i noticed a slight knock from the 3500, nothing terrible but it was there..

I kept the RPM's low all the way home and started investigating that night, didn't find anything right away and it seemed to have stopped.. so i drove it to work, was fine in the morning but in the afternoon heat the engine really warmed up and the knock came back.

I pulled the pan tonight to check and found that #1 rod bearing was spun Sad




the rod cap is scratched up a little but the crank looks fine, i'm going to check the crank with the micrometer this weekend. If it's ok and the rod end is still useable i might just toss another bearing in there (i have a set of spares) and hope it lasts.. lol


I have yet to pull the rest of the rod caps but i plan on it, this is on a bottom end with roughly 3K miles running Mobile 1 10W30. Sad

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projectcavalierz24sc Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sucks.
Why are you not running 5W-30?

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daveycav90 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey sorry about that but it could be worse like my other 3400 it spun all the bearing and wrecked the crank, rods, and the block is junk Sad

good luck hope it works for you
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whitelightning2 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

projectcavalierz24sc wrote:
That sucks.
Why are you not running 5W-30?



too thin.. the engine didn't like it.



I looked at a spare block and it appears that the #1 piston is the only one that will come out the bottom... i have a spare set of pistons/rods so i might just go ahead and swap it out.


I still gotta pull the rest of the caps and check the bearings though...

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daveycav90 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry to here that Sad

hope you get it back up and running
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man that sucks dave...what are you going to swap in now
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whitelightning2 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cavi_rs_94 wrote:
Man that sucks dave...what are you going to swap in now



If i can't get this engine to run by September 7th then i'll figure it all out then. I have a perfect oppertunity to get alot of track time on that day.


getting all the metal out of the system is going to be tricky, i plan on putting a bunch of magnets in the pan and changing the oil a few times.

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cobra17st Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sucks, Dave.

You still thinking about taking it back to stock after you hit 12s?

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slowolej
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple Q's...

What rpm do you run to?
Have you measured rod big end ID at 2 points yet?
Does upper bearing have signs of heat discoloration on top of bearing, or is bottom of rod discolored from heat? It's a good idea to try and determine what killed your bearing.

Flushing passages might not be too hard. Remove oil pressure sender and use fuel pump in kerosene, diesel, or engine flush solvent of your choice. Leave oil pan off during flush. Simple, old fashioned oil squirt can with 10-30 will be enough to refill engine passages with oil after flushing. 10-20 pumps will go a long way.

Some people don't realize that synthetic oil doesn't guarantee anything. If you're heating conventional oil up so much it breaks down, maybe you want to reconsider your tune, fuel choice, etc. Conventional engine oils plenty good and changing conventional at 2000 mi still less $$ than running synthetics to 7000. The phrase "...and I was using synthetic" is not uncommon in blowed engine threads.
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whitelightning2 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slowolej wrote:
Couple Q's...

What rpm do you run to?
Have you measured rod big end ID at 2 points yet?
Does upper bearing have signs of heat discoloration on top of bearing, or is bottom of rod discolored from heat? It's a good idea to try and determine what killed your bearing.

Flushing passages might not be too hard. Remove oil pressure sender and use fuel pump in kerosene, diesel, or engine flush solvent of your choice. Leave oil pan off during flush. Simple, old fashioned oil squirt can with 10-30 will be enough to refill engine passages with oil after flushing. 10-20 pumps will go a long way.

Some people don't realize that synthetic oil doesn't guarantee anything. If you're heating conventional oil up so much it breaks down, maybe you want to reconsider your tune, fuel choice, etc. Conventional engine oils plenty good and changing conventional at 2000 mi still less $$ than running synthetics to 7000. The phrase "...and I was using synthetic" is not uncommon in blowed engine threads.


i run it to about 6700 or so, RPM limit is 7K

haven't measured the rod big end but it is damaged enough to warrant replacement with a spare.

i'm running conservative timing and good fuel so i don't think detonation or anything like that caused it, might have just been some BS floating around in the oil that finally got pushed through at the wrong time.


I have some kerosine, might try to pump that though... I've got 2 weeks to get it going.

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oneredry Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sucks to hear that dude, time for some upgrades????
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34blazer Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aww man that sucks a big fat bag of dix. oil starvation on that bearing at 6K+ rpms maybe? maybe loosen the tolerance on that journal? and maybe a HV oil pump?
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91z24 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sucks Dave

Did those bearings are the stock one or did you already took the bottom end apart before ?

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tiny1877 Gender:Male
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those look like the bearings we took out of the VW motor in our dune buggy back in high school. We forgot about the oil journals on the first bearing and it spun. Oops!

Wondered why it turned over so hard the first time...

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

projectcavalierz24sc wrote:
That sucks.
Why are you not running 5W-30?

Quote:
Here's an excerpt:
The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as cold as a single-grade 10 weight oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100�C (212�F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle.


The first number means little or none to the heat resistance.

EDIT: Bearing composition is non-ferrous (not magnetic).

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Last edited by forced_firebird on Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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