changing struts.

demonwolf · Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:59 pm Post subject:

I just beat the ear that the tie rod sits in with a hammer... The fork method tends to rip the boot in my experience...

chronos · Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 9:38 am Post subject:

This tool is easy on the boots and all you have to do is turn the nut instead of beat it with a hammer http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=tie+rod+separator&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=788447953961042325&sa=X&ei=sEC9TsidK4fmiAKZ0OSyAw&ved=0CCwQ8gIwAA

If you have non-ABS brakes get this one and you can also do the balljoints http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010[/url]

70monte · Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 7:52 pm Post subject:

I ended up buying a tie rod seperator like the one chronos gave the link to from Autozone and it worked great.

I had also bought the spring compressor from Autozone a couple of weeks ago and it also worked great. That part went a lot smoother than I figured it would.

The entire job took me way longer than it should of though. About seven hours total. I had some issues getting out the lower bolts on the first strut I tried removing from the car. I had to use a hammer to beat them out after I removed the nuts. That is when I discovered they were splined. The other strut removal went quicker because I knew what I was doing by then.

I also had to drill out the hole in one of the new strut mounts I had bought because they didn't line up the two pieces that make up the middle section where the strut rod goes through it. I had to find one of my neighbors who had a drill press because I didn't have anything that would work. That took a lot longer than it should have.

The rear shocks didn't take very long at all but my air rachet quit on me so the installation took longer than it should have.

I now have to get the car aligned because the alignment is way off. So much that I parked it until I can make an appointment. Both front tires are pointing slightly outward. So, I have not had a chance to see if the car rides better or not.

I also discovered that both of my front brake lines are shot and need to be replaced. The rubber section is cracked in several places. That could explain why my brakes don't seem like they are working very well. The lines are probably collapsing when the brakes are applied. I have new rotors and pads to put on because I knew that the rotors were badly warped and the pads were getting close to the wear tabs.

This was my first time replacing struts and using a spring compressor so I learned something new today. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

Wayne

cahilj · Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:56 am Post subject:

70monte · Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:36 pm Post subject:

I finally got everything replaced today. The car was aligned this past Wednesday and today I installed both front rotors, front brake pads, both front brake lines and the left side caliper due to the boot leaking. Luckily it had a lifetime warranty from when I replaced them in 2008.

I used Raybestos rotors and Raybestos ceramic pads this time around instead of the Wagner stuff I used back in 2008. I hope these rotors don't warp as easily as the Wagner ones did. These Raybestos rotors are supposed to be their top line ones so we will see.

The alignment shop said all of my balljoints and tie rod ends were still good so I should be done with suspension and brake stuff for a little while.

Of course my rear brakes and wheel cylinders have almost 85,000 miles on them since I replaced them when I first got the car 5 1/2 years ago with 76,000 miles on it so with my luck, I'm sure they will have to be replaced again soon.

Wayne

tricky01 · Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:26 am Post subject:

Also job will be a lot faster with a air compressor. I did my lowering springs, struts and shocks last year with no problem. Problem was changing lower control arms because of bolt was stuck inside of well of frame. But springs was no problem and changed strut mounts also.

70monte · Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:12 am Post subject:

I did use an air compressor or it would have taken much longer.

Wayne

cavalier3400z · Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:27 am Post subject:

Buy new tie rod ends, the are only liek $5 a piece. They go bad and when you try to remove them you may break the stud or the boot. Save the hassle and dont be cheap. Replace them while it is a apart, and you can get to them.

70monte · Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:14 am Post subject:

I have already replaced the struts and disconnected the tie rod ends with no problems. When my suspension guy realigned the front end, he checked the tie rod ends and said they were still good.

Wayne

	V6Z24.com Forum Index -> Suspension & Chassis	All times are CDT (U.S./Canada) Goto page Previous 1, 2
Page 2 of 2

Registry Login