How to FiberGlass By Hurricane

[hurricane]

CHAPTER #1

OK to start off with, you will need something simple to mold from.
Now this tutorial will be on how to do a one piece mold, I will show you in the next few issues on how to do multiple piece molds and also mold-less construction. Then for the expert's how to do a fully in-closed mold this means molding some thing you can't do from the out side. Well so to speak you will see what I mean LOL.

Now there is a few things I need to get out of the way first before we begin.
First off fiberglass will not stick or bond to any kind of plastic.
EX = door-panels dash's and some other interior parts.
EX = glass any kind.
EX = scotch tape, wax paper.
EX = bare metal, aluminum, chrome, aluminum foil.
Now it will stick to it but if you grab a hold of it you can pull the two piece's apart, so it will never really stay attached.

Also if you use masking tape then the resin will never really cure while it is on the tape, you can tell this from
it being sticky when you peel off the tape, there is something in the tape that cause's this. (glue or chemical's )

Now that this is all out of the way lets get started shall we.
I am going to use a head light cover from a first gen Mazda RX7.

Here is a picture of the headlight cover before I begin this one has had all the body work done to it.
And is also primered with a 2 part primer.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/start1.jpg

Now use only a 2 part primer, never use primer from an aerosol can or primer that you just add thinner to.
You need to use a primer that require's a hardener or catalyst, this is because resin soaks through any other primers, then you will never be able to get your part out of the mold.
An if you do will will have a ton of work ahead of you to fix the damage it will cause.

Now one thing you have to do is make sure you really think about what you are going to do before you start, so that
this way you won't have any problems through out our little project.
Now make sure you pick something that will be fairly easy for you to mold, especially if this is your first time.
One really big thing is to make sure there will be no negative's in your mold, other wise you will never be able to pull the part out of the mold with out damaging the part or the mold.

Here is a picture of what I mean.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/negative.jpg

Now think about this the arrows repersent the way you would pull the part out of the mold.
You can't pull something that is 6 inch's wide at the bottom and 4 inch's wide at the top.
Out of something that does not have at least a 6 inch wide opening from were you are pulling the part out of.
Think of it this way, you can't get the boat out of a bottle with out damaging it right ???
Well unless you brake the bottle LOL.

Now what I am going to do here is not a stock piece cause that would just be point less right??
So what I plane on doing is putting RX7 on the head light cover, to give it a better look then a stock one an also just to be different.
Now this piece is something that is flat and has no negative's in it.
What you have to do is prepare the piece so that there is no imperfections in it.
The better you make this piece look, the better your mold and new piece will look.
Now lets get started.
The first thing I do is sand it smooth, if there is any spots that need to be fixed, then fix them before you start this next step.
You start with 400 wet then 600 then 800 then 1000, use only wet sandpaper the reason for this is because wet sand paper will not plug up and wear out like it would if you use it dry, this is only for when you are using sandpaper finer then 320 grit.
The only reason I started with 400 wet is because this piece does not need any repairs.
Now here is something that not alot of people know, is the right way to sand.
Now if you sand in a straight line with your fingures you will end up with small wave's in the part.
Dont sand like this at any time no matter what paper you use.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Not-This.jpg

You need to sand this way.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/This-way.jpg

This is only for when you are not using a block to sand.
If you are going to use a block to sand this is the right way to do it.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/BlockSand.jpg

If you use the block turned a few degrees you find that you can sand just about anything really easily,
and it will always turn out flat as a board.
If your useing a block dont sand like this

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/BlockSand-no.jpg

This is because some times the paper will wrinkle up and cuase a crease in it, an then you will be leaving mark
in your part with every stroke you take.
When you start with 400 all you want to do is get rid of the orange peel look, wipe the piece dry and make sure it looks all dull and no shiny spots.

Here is a picture of what I mean.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/FinishedSanding-400.jpg

Here is a picture of it with only a few orange peel spots left in it.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/spots.jpg


If there is only a few left don't worry as you go through the next few stages of sandpaper they will take the rest of them out.
Now wipe the piece dry after each stage of sanding and you can see if you have sanded out the scratch's.
use 600 to get ride of 400 and 800 to get ride of 600 and 1000 to get ride of 800.
Some times I use up to 2000 but this is only if you don't plane on painting the part.
Then after all the sanding is done you then will need to polish the piece prior to waxing.

Here is a picture of how it looks before I use polish.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Sanding1000-1.jpg

Now you want to use a really good polish, one that will remove 1000 grit scratch's I recommend one that is good for both hand or machine, now you don't want to use one at high speed or you will burn the surface of the part (paint or primer) then you will be in for a hole new world of trouble.
Use only a small amount of polish about the size of a quarter per square foot.
Work only about 2 to 3 square feet at a time, take your time and let the polish do the work for you.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/TurboCut.jpg

Now also same thing go's here, put your polish on in even straight line, this will help keep you from getting swirl
marks in the part.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/polish.jpg

Remember let the polisher do the work for you.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Polishing.jpg

Now after that if you feel you need to or just want your piece to turn out even better.
Use a finer polish that will remove 1200 grit scratch's, also know as a finish-cut.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/FinishCut.jpg

Well this is it for chapter #1
Please check back in the next few days, as I will be posting pictures as we go along through this little project.
It should be between 2 to 3 days for each chapter befor I post again.
So find something you want to mold and get started, and follow us through this tutorial.

Thanks and hope this tutorial will help a few of you out that want to learn the right way to fiberglass.
If you have any questions or just need a little help please email me at

tutorials@cogeco.ca

Your Fiberglass Teacher Hurricane.

[fallenz24]

Very good how-to. Keep them coming!

Joseph

[girlracer]

someone needs to move this to appearance or general auto, i will make it a sticky

[brooksoffroadz24]

[hurricane]

Ok we all ready to move on to the next step?
Well this one is going to be a big one so hold on to your socks.
The last time I left you we were finishing the polishing, if all went right this is what you should have now.


http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/polished.JPG

Now don't try and skip the wet sanding and polishing part, thinking you can save time because this can
cause you more problems later.
Now this is what you’re going to need here.
Glue gun, really good scissors, pencil, ruler, scotch tape, and a sharp chisel, soft clay that is not oil based.
The oil in some clay's will cause gel-coat and resin to wrinkle or pull away from the part.
This is what’s called pre-release or alligator skin.
Trust me you don’t want to have this happen to you, because this takes a ton of work to fix and besides it will make your mold look like crap an you don’t want that and nether do I.
I wouldn’t be a very good teacher if that happens now would I.
Now you really have to think about this part, what we are going to do is create what is called a trim edge, all the way around the part.
This is so you have some were for the excess fiberglass to go, an can make sure your fibreglass is the same thickness right to the edge of the part.
Also I use it so I can pull the part out of the mold, with out prying on the part and causing damage to it.
You want to have 2 to 3 inch's of trim edge around the part, so measure what you need then cut and test fit it to make sure it's right, if you need to trim more off do so till it fits perfectly.
Now remember when I told you what fibreglass wont stick to ??
I use 1/16 thick plastic this is because I like for my trim edge to be nice and smooth, and besides fibreglass don’t stick to it right.
So it makes it a lot easier to get at your part and pull it out of the mold you will see what I mean later.
Now here a picture of the trim edge test fit before I start gluing it down.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/trimedge.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/trimedge-1.JPG

Then start one side at a time put a small amount of glue on the plastic every 2 inches and press it firmly against the part and hold till the glue cools usually about 30 seconds, then add more glue to the plastic.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/glue.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/glue-2.JPG

Now move on to the next piece and so on till you have all the trim edges done.
You will then need to fill in the open spaces with more glue this is so that the trim edge wont pull away from your part.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/glue-1.JPG

I know it looks like there is a lot of glue but hey the worst thing could be have the trim edge fall off when your putting the gel-coat on it.
This is what it should look like

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/glue-3.JPG

Now that we have all the trim edge's done you will need to glue all the piece's together, what I do is use a small piece of plastic to hold from one piece to the other, put glue on the plastic and press firmly against the other piece's.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/gluebrace.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/gluebrace-1.JPG

Now go and do the rest of them, and when your all done you will need to use the chisel to get ride of the excess glue.
Once you have done that you will now need to use the clay and fill in the edge around your part, this is so that the gel-coat wont seep through and lock the plug in the mold, the plug is what you call the part you are using to mold from.
Now need the clay in your hands till its good and soft, this makes it easier to work with and it will work its way into all the little cracks.
Now don’t worry about how much clay you use, just make sure you hold the bottom of the trim edge and brace it against the plug.
This is so you wont push it away from the plug when your putting the clay on it.
Here is yet another picture of what I mean.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/clay.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/clay-1.JPG

Now you will also trim all the excess clay from around the plug you only want to fill in all the little cracks and edges.
You want to hold the chisel horizontally first.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/clay-2.JPG

Then you will hold the chisel vertically to get rid of more clay like this.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/clay-3.JPG

Once that is all done take off any excess clay on the trim edge or plug.
Now this is what it should look like, you can barely see any clay this is because all you want is to fill in the small gaps so that the gel-coat won’t seep through.
This is what it should look like.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/clayfinieshed.JPG

Once you have that all done you will then put the scotch tape on the seams were the plastic piece's meet each other.
I know you can see that it looks like I did it first but that’s because I didn’t get a good picture of the clay the first time.
Well I want to make sure that no one has a problem or any trouble do this little tutorial.
See even I make mistakes.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/finishedtrimedge.JPG

Now that all this is done you need to wax the plug, I use a wax called TR high temp mold release.
I have found this to be the best wax for making a mold with.
Because of the amount of heat you create when making a mold from the layers of fibreglass you put on it.
Now put on the first coat of wax and go have a coffee or something to drink, you have to wait at least 20 to 30 minutes before the wax dries.
Now don't put too much on or it will take even longer to dry, you want to wax in straight line were ever possible.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/moldrellease.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/waxing.JPG

Now don’t forget to wax the trim edge, I wax it all the way on the first coat and then again on the last coat.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/Chapter%232/waxing-1.JPG

Once the wax has dried use a 100% cotton cloth to wipe off the wax, keep turning the cloth over as your wiping off the wax.
If you find the cloth is getting full off wax use a new clean one.
Now please don't try to cheat here ether, you need to have 5 to 6 coats of wax before you can do anything else.
But this is a little some thing I do, I leave the last coat of wax on the trim edge only not the plug this helps for easier pulling off of the plastic trim edge.
Once you have all 6 coats done, if you have removed any of the clay fix it up now before you start the next step.
You are now ready to mix molding gel-coat or also called tooling gel-coat.
You can use any gel-coat for this but if you want to have a mold last a long time and be able to make 100's piece's out of it then you will need to use what’s called tooling gel-coat.
Also make sure you use brush-able gel-coat for this project, there is also a spray-able gel-coat but I don't think you have the gel-coat gun for spraying, they can cost up to $3000.00 for a good one.
So I am showing you how to do it with a paintbrush.

Now here is one thing all people should know is the proper mixing for resin and gel-coat.
If you want your gel-coat or resin to cure right then never mix it at more then 2 % MEK.
I mix all my gel-coats at 1 1/2 % to 2% and all my resin at 1% to 1 1/2% if you mix resin more then that it will harden really fast and become very brittle and if you have a lot it will catch on fire. YES thats right it is self-combustible if there is a lot.
Now don't think hey I need to try this and see because it can be very dangerous never leave your excess near anything that is flammable.
I put my excess in the middle of the floor (concrete floor ) or out side when I am done with it.
Now for all mixing measurements.

1% =
So for every 100oz resin or gel-coat = 1oz MEK or 30 millilitre’s MEK
So for every 10oz resin or gel-coat = 3 millilitre’s MEK

1 1/2% =
So for every 100oz resin or gel-coat = 1. 5 oz MEK or 45 millilitre’s MEK
So for every 10oz resin or gel-coat = 4. 5 millilitre’s MEK

2% =
So for every 100oz resin or gel-coat = 2 oz MEK or 60 millilitre’s MEK
So for every 10oz resin or gel-coat = 6 millilitre’s MEK

1oz = 30 millilitre’s

All gel-coat takes about 6 to 8 hours to cure enough before you can apply fiberglass.
All resin should be left for 12 hours or longer.
If you go with a slower cure rate the fiberglass will be stronger but don’t go to slow or it can take days for it to cure.
Now there are 100’s of different resin’s you can use, now the numbers on them work for telling you the cure rate of the resin.
I usually leave all my gel-coat or resin over night then I know it's had long enough to cure before I apply more fiberglass to it.
Now for the gel-coat makes sure it’s mixed really well, scraping the bottom of the container and sides to make sure it's thoroughly mixed.
I also use a plastic container or cup, this way when it hardens I can just pull it out and re-use the cup.
Good idea don’t ya think.
Then you will use a paintbrush to apply it to the plug.
Make sure you use nice soft strokes in a straight line, there I go again with them damn straight lines again.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/gel-coat/gel-coat.jpg

When you have to do a sharp corner use the side of the brush like this.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/gel-coat/gel-coat1.jpg

Half way there.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/gel-coat/gel-coat2.jpg

Now make sure you put enough gel-coat on the plug, it should be at least 20 mil or 1/16 to 1/8 thick.
Look it over really good and make sure there is no thin spots or little bubbles, if there is use a nail or something with a sharp point to pop them and put more gel-coat on if needed.
Make sure you go all the way to the edge with the same thickness.
Now check that you don't have too much on it, or it will crack when you pull out the plug.
Now that this is all done leave it over night or at least 6 to 8 hour's.

This is what you should have and what it should look like now.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/gel-coat/gel-coat3.jpg

Now that all I have for you today.
Make sure to check back tomorrow when we finally get to lay up some fibreglass.
I know that’s what you all have been waiting for right ?
Until then have a good day/night and we will see you L8ER.
Thanks for your help.
If you have any questions or just need a little help please email me at

tutorials@cogeco.ca

Your Fiberglass Teacher Hurricane.

[hurricane]

If any one would like this tutorial in a .pdf or word please let me know and I can email it to you.
This way you can print it out and use it with you while you are fiberglassing.
I will email all pictures with the tutorial.
Also if there is a tutorial on some thing specific you would like to see just email me and I will see what I can do for you.
Later on I will show you how to put a pod gage in your center console.
Thanks
Hurricane.

[type10_lowered]

make this a pdf toutorial it's really high quality, also i'm interested in skinning somethings in carbon fibre......

[fallenz24]

Keep them coming! I'm learning alot. Thanks for the how-to's.

Joseph

[hurricane]

Chapter #3
Now this one is not to long just time consuming that’s all.
Now here are some of the tools you will need for this part of the tutorial.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/tools.jpg

You will also need to get some good latex gloves because this part can get messy.
Make sure they are latex not vinyl, resin will eat through them.
Now that the gel-coat has had time to cure we can put the first layer of fiberglass on it.
Cut the fiberglass bigger then the piece including the trim edges make it at least 1 to 1 1/2 inches bigger then the whole mold.
Then start wetting out the fibreglass from the middle first.
Make sure you use a 100% bristle paintbrush don’t use the plastic or imitation one’s because the resin will eat through them and make one heck of a mess.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/wet-out.jpg

Now for the first layer I will be using 1oz fiberglass mat and then we will be using 1 ½ oz fiberglass mat for the rest of the layers.
The reason I am using 1oz chopped strand mat for this, is because it's the easiest one to get rid of the air bubbles in it, they will come right through the fibreglass with out you having to roll them all the way to the edge to get rid of them.
Now you only want to put 1 layer on it and then let it cure before you go any farther and put more layers on it.
If you try and put more layers on it you will end up with a lot of air bubbles in it and besides that there is a good chance the mold will crack from to much build-up on it.
Also it will get way to hot and soak through the wax that is protecting the plug, then it will stick to it and believe me you don't want that I know from when I was learning how to fiberglass for the first time.

Now you will see allot of air bubbles under the fibreglass, you will need to get rid of them or the gel-coat will crack and you will have chunks missing from your mold when you are done.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/air-bubbles.jpg

Now don’t worry about not having a proper roller I will show you how to do it with out the roller.
Now if you have a roller there is only one way that you should be rolling out the air bubbles.
You need to roll like this but only 1 to 2 inches in ether directions slowly working your way to the edge.
Now don’t press to hard or you will pull the cloth away from the gel-coat, and always start from the middle and work your way out.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/roller2.jpg
Now I always roll the middle first then I do the edges.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/roller.jpg

Here is a picture of it after the first layer has been done and all the air bubbles have been rolled out.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/roller-finished.jpg

Now for the other ways for you too get rid of the air bubbles in the cloth.
Now remember work from the center out, were ever possible.
After you wet-out the cloth you will then use a heavy plastic not a zip-lock bag.
You need a heavy enough plastic that the resin wont eat through, and place it over the fiberglass make sure the plastic is bigger then the part you are rolling.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/plastic.jpg

Now you can use a plastic spreader and very lightly pull the air bubbles out of the cloth.
Most times you will need to do it 2 or 3 times to get all the air bubbles out.
Remember to work from the center out.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/plastic-spredder.jpg

Now this is one of the ways I find it a lot easier, is to use a bolt so it’s almost like using a proper fiberglass roller. You will need to cut off the head of the bold and make sure there are no burs on it, or it will cut through the plastic.
Don’t press to hard or you will roll all the resin out of the cloth and then you will need to start all over.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/bolt.jpg

Can you see all the air bubbles in the cloth? You need to get rid of them or your mold will be weak and can crack very easily.
This is what it should look like now after it’s all done.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/fiberglass-rolling/bolt-finished.jpg
After the first layer is done give it time to cure at least 8 to 10 hours it doesn’t need a lot of time because it’s only 1 layer.

Now that it has had long enough time to cure we can continue with the rest of the layers.
All molds should be between 7 to 12 layers this way they won’t crack or flex and cause the gel-coat to
pre-release.
If you plane on only making a few parts or just one out of this mold then make sure you put at least 5 layers on it.
For are next step we will be putting on only 3 layers are mold will only be 7 layers thick this isbecause this is such a small part an there is no need for it to be that strong.
OK to start off with we brush on a thin coat of resin on the mold and then put down are first piece of fiberglass and wet it out like I showed you.
Now you need to roll out every layer before you put the next one on.
Now we will put the next layer on and wet it out also.
Now remember to roll out all the air bubbles, after each layer.
If you put on to many layers at a time it will be to hard to roll out all the air bubbles.
Now only mix enough resin for each layer till you get use to using resin and mixing times or your resin will
harden before you have time to finish all 3 layers.
If your resin starts to gel you will only have about 3 to 5 minutes left of work time before it’s totally usless.
Now go out for dinner or see some friends and for get about it for the night LOL.
These 3 layers need a good amount of time to cure before we finish it off, over night will do just fine.
Then you will need to put the rest of the layers on it and just follow the steps I showed you.
This is all I have for chapter #3 in the next 2 chapters we will finish the mold and then make a finished part.
So keep up the good work and we will see you then.
Thanks
Hurricane.

[tiny1877]

Hey hurricane...

If you want to email them to me in word format with the pictures, I'll make you a nice PDF and clean up the grammar and formatting a bit.

[hurricane]

Back so soon !
Don't worry there is only one more chapter after this one, I promise.
This is what your mold should look like if you followed all the steps correctly.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold-1.JPG


Bet you can’t wait for this part right.
Now the first thing you need to do it trim off all the extra fiberglass, I cut it about 1/16 into the edge of the plastic trim edge.
Believe it or not you can use a hacksaw or a zip cut disk on a die-grinder or if you’re really lucky you can use a diamond wheel.
Now don’t try and peel off all the plastic yet or you will chip the mold.
Once you are done trimming off all of the excess fiberglass this is what you should have.

http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold-trimmed.JPG

Now you can peel off all the plastic and this is what you should have.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold-trimmed-1.JPG

Now make sure there is no gel-coat that found it's way past the edge of the plug.
I have let some do it just so I can show you what to expect.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/gel-coat.JPG

If there is grab some 220 sand paper and start sanding till you can see the edge of your plug.
Don’t use to course of sand paper or you will scratch up the mold and then you will have to do repairs
I wont get into how to do that yet.
Besides you want to do it right the first time don’t you?
Now don’t try and pry it out any ways thinking it will be OK cause it won’t.
Now look close and you can see that I sanded only till I could see the edge of the plug.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/gel-coat-1.JPG

Once that is all done look it over really good and see if there was any more gel-coat that worked it way through.
You don't want to have a chip out of it now after all this work.
If you do by chance chip the mold you can always use some of the clay to fix it up before you make your new part.
Now find a good rubber hammer NOT A STEEL ONE or you will surly crack the mold.
An start tapping the mold side first then tap the plug this will help release it from the mold.
You might need to use a good flat screwdriver or a pry bar for this but be careful when doing this pry against the plug not the mold because you will scratch the mold if you do that way.
Now look I gone and chipped the mold but hey it happens to the best of us.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold-untouched.JPG

Now once you have the plug out of the mold, inspect the mold to make sure it all looks good.
If there are any imperfections in it you will need to wet-sand them out.
Yes that’s right more wet-sanding and also polishing sorry but you need to do this.
It will all be worth it in the long run you will see.
I started with 600 then 800 then 1000 then 1200 the better you make this look the better you part will be.
Now only sand were it needs it.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold-wetsanded.JPG

Now if you have listed to me and done all the steps as I have stated, all you now have to do is polish the mold.
This is what it should look like after you polish it, should look really shiny and no scratches
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold-finished.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/mold/mold-finished-1.JPG

Now don’t go and think hey I can make the part now because your wrong there is a few more things you need to do before we get into the last stages of fiberglassing.
Well that’s all I have for you to day sorry.
I still have a few tricks up my sleeve for you to learn so check back tomorrow and we can finally finish of this little tutorial.
Here are a few other pictures for you to look at, they are of some of the rollers I use every day and also a few of my boat shop were I build sailboats.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/BoatShop
An yes fiberglass is a messy business, but hey I love it!!!!!!
Till the next time we meet thanks for your help and good luck to you.

tutorials@cogeco.ca

Your Fiberglass Teacher Hurricane.

[fallenz24]

These how-tos are helping out alot. I like to use fiberglass and it's always good to know how to make something the right way. Maybe when your all finished with the tourial i could get one of the pdf versions with the pics in it. That way i can print and use any time i need help.

Thanks,
Joseph

[hurricane]

I would be glad to send it to anyone that wants it.
as soon as its all finished.
Or I will put it up so you can all download it.
Thanks
Hurricane.

[hurricane]

Well are we all ready to finally make are new part.
Now sorry about this but the first thing is it's waxing time again LOL.
Now you have to put up to 5 or 6 coats of wax on the mold this is only because this is a new mold.
After this you only need to put 1 or 2 coat of wax before each part is made.
Now don't forget to let the wax dry before each coat 20 to 30 minutes and wipe with 100% cotton cloth,
then do the next layer of wax and so on.
Remember to wax in straight lines and make sure you don’t get to much build-up in the corners and edges.
If you get to much build up the wax wont dry and then when you wipe it off there wont be any cured wax left on the mold.
Here is the mold waxed and waiting to dry, remember to wax in straight lines an don’t get to much wax on the mold.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/wax.JPG

Here is the finished mold all waxed and ready to make the first piece.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/wax-cleaned.JPG


Now remember when I told you about getting chips in the mold, if you have any now is the time to fill them in with the clay.
Shape the clay as if it were the mold, an now you are ready to gel-coat.

Now we will gel-coat the mold, now don't go all the way to the edge.
Start with the edges of the part first and use the ends of the bristles to make sure you get gel-coat in all the small edges and in the corners.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/gel-coat.JPG

You do all your edges and crease’s first this is because you don’t want to trap any air bubbles in it.
Also this is when the gel-coat is thin it will start to thicken with in 2 to 5 minutes, you will have about 10 to 15 minutes in total to work with it.
So make sure you only mix what you need or have time to use.
Mix gel-coat at 2% only.


This is what you should have once it’s all gel-coated, now try not to put to much on you only need it to be about 1/16 to 1/8 thick.
If you get to much gel-coat build up when you pull the part you will see that it will be all deformed.
That is because gel-coat shrink’s more then resin when it cures.
Try to keep the gel-coat looking as smooth as possible.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/gel-coat1.JPG


Then after the gel-coat has had time to cure 6 to 8 hours then we will do the fiberglassing.
Now for all the sharp corners and hard to reach places I use what is called cabasile/fixatropic.
If you don’t have any don’t worry you can use talc powder or baby powder.
This is what was used before they had cabasile.
Now you want it to look smooth like peanut butter and as thick.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/cabsile.JPG

You will be using resin for this, now when you make cabasile you will only add MEK for the amount of resin you are using not the total amount with the cabasile mix at 1% ONLY.
Mix it really well you don’t want any lumps in it or you can get air-bubbles in your part when it cures.
You only need cabasile were you have a 90deg corner or sharp edge, the cabasile helps for rolling fiberglass because fiberglass will not go into a sharp 90deg crease if it does you will see when it cures there will be.
Air bubbles all the way along the edge.
Cabasile turns a 90deg corner into a 45 this makes it a lot easier to roll out the fiberglass and not have any air bubbles in the part.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/cabasile1.JPG

Now don’t use to much cabasile or you will run into problems later.
Now its time for the fiberglass you have to do the fiberglassing before the cabasile has time to cure.
So I would suggest you get all your fiberglass and resins and every thing else you will need ready before you start any of this.
Now same as before cut the fiberglass a little bigger then the part at least 1 to 2 inch's all the way around.
Now start wetting the fiberglass from the center and work your way out to the edges.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/wet-out.JPG

I will be using 2 layers of 1.5oz fiberglass.
Wet out both layers then roll all the air bubbles out and look it over really good, to make sure you didn't miss any.
You will need to roll most of the cabasile out but don’t roll to much out or it wont have done its work for you.
Here is a picture of the fiberglass all ready to roll, you can see the air bubbles in it.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/wet-out1.JPG

Always roll from the center out, Take your time here to make sure you get them all out.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/rolled-out.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/rolled-out1.JPG


Once that is all done leave it over night again so it has time to cure.
I bet you cant wait for this I know I can't every time I make a new part it's like opening presents at Christmas time
Now remember the trim edge, you now see why it’s so important to have a good trim edge.
What you will need here is a good flat screwdriver or a pry-bar.
You will now use the edge to pry the part out of the mold, so you wont put any scratch's in the mold,
or the part.
If you did it everything I showed you right it should just jump out at ya.
Now here is what are new piece looks like.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/poped.JPG

An all we have to do is trim all the excess off and sand the edges and we are all done.
Here is what the finished part looks like after it has been trimmed and edges sanded.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/trimed.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/trimed1.JPG
http://home.cogeco.ca/~tutorials/part/sand-edge.JPG

Now you can see how shinny the part is, this is why you take all the time in the beginning to prep and polish the plug.
Now you see how much better your part comes out, and besides it will make it that much easier for you when it comes time for painting.

Thanks for all your help in this little project and keep an eye out for my up and coming one's on
more complex molding and fiberglassing.
I hope that this has helped every one out that wanted to learn the correct way to fiberglass.
If you need or want to ask any other questions please feel free to email me at.
tutorials@cogeco.ca
Thanks for all your help and I hope you have had as much fun as I have in this little adventure.

Hurricane (aka Bill Hayward )
Of
Hurricane Fibers.

[linkinpark1287]

Where exactly did you put in the RX 7 part of it..... i didn't see you mention anything about it, i hate being confused, and can you send me the .pdf file. I really like the finished product btw. very top notch. you know your stuff