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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, i just got word that the car wont even start now. She said she noticed the ABS light was on at a stoplight, (its a 5 speed by the way) then when she gave it a little gas and let the clutch out, it barely moved then just died. Not like she killed it or anything it just kinda went poof, dead. Its stuck in a parking lot on 92nd and beloit i guess.
 

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gmfan83 said:
Well, i just got word that the car wont even start now. She said she noticed the ABS light was on at a stoplight, (its a 5 speed by the way) then when she gave it a little gas and let the clutch out, it barely moved then just died. Not like she killed it or anything it just kinda went poof, dead. Its stuck in a parking lot on 92nd and beloit i guess.
what does it do, crank no start or nothing at all?

the ABS light would not cause it to cut out like that
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah, i really didnt think the ABS light would have anything to do with it, but its the only thing she really mentioned to me. I believe she said the starter just clicks, so that could be bad. She said the dash lights dimmed out for a sec before it died too. Im going to check it out during lunch, so ill be able to tell you more this afternoon
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, knowing her, she probly had one of her ghetto boyfriends put in some stolen amp and sub, with to capacitor. Hell there probly isnt even an in line fuse in the power cable lol. Ive seen what her friends have done to her other cars :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok, I went to look at it, It fired up first try, but the battery light was on. The battery looks pretty new, the alternator had been replaced also. I had her shut it off while i checked all the wires. We then tried to start it again and all we got was a loud, rapid clicking noise. So, im thinking that its the starter, or maybe the selenoid?
 

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zepplica said:
gmfan83 said:
i will have to try that. do you have to pause at all between on - off?
no , do it as fast as you can.. hell it takes me a few times to get it to work
That's not even a possibility to retrive codes.

Probably a weak battery, a fast click is the starte solenoid trying to engage, but not enough to actually engage. The laternator sounds liek it's not charging, could be a number of reasons, only one of which neing teh alternator itself.
 

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Six_Shooter said:
That's not even a possibility to retrive codes.

Probably a weak battery, a fast click is the starte solenoid trying to engage, but not enough to actually engage. The laternator sounds liek it's not charging, could be a number of reasons, only one of which neing teh alternator itself.
Agreed.
 

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Six_Shooter said:
zepplica said:
gmfan83 said:
i will have to try that. do you have to pause at all between on - off?
no , do it as fast as you can.. hell it takes me a few times to get it to work
That's not even a possibility to retrive codes.
six i take alot of what you say to be worth its weight in gold, however im going to have to disagree with you on this one. learned this working at autozone when the OBDII scanner was broke, and ive done it on few different OBDII cars
 

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zepplica said:
http://neons.org/howtos/diag.shtml

it may be for neons but its still OBDII
GM cars as every OBD II car is required to use a 6 digit alpha-numeric trouble code (first two identifying the area (powertrain, body, ABS, etc the next 4 giving the actual trouble code). I have heard of certain OBD I cars responding to that, but it was only a certain car, IIRC Chrysler only, like the link you provided is from.

How would you distiguish between a PO code or BO (? Body) code? I've never had that work on ANY OBDII car I've worked on, and yes, due to certain programming procedures for alarms and remote starters, I do indeed need to turn the key on and off quickly 3 times to initiate a programming sequence. CEL has never given me a flashing sequence, even on cars that had a CEL light on when they came in.
 

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Six_Shooter said:
zepplica said:
http://neons.org/howtos/diag.shtml

it may be for neons but its still OBDII
GM cars as every OBD II car is required to use a 6 digit alpha-numeric trouble code (first two identifying the area (powertrain, body, ABS, etc the next 4 giving the actual trouble code). I have heard of certain OBD I cars responding to that, but it was only a certain car, IIRC Chrysler only, like the link you provided is from.

How would you distiguish between a PO code or BO (? Body) code? I've never had that work on ANY OBDII car I've worked on, and yes, due to certain programming procedures for alarms and remote starters, I do indeed need to turn the key on and off quickly 3 times to initiate a programming sequence. CEL has never given me a flashing sequence, even on cars that had a CEL light on when they came in.
your right the PO and BO codes i cant remember how i distiguished that right i just know its helped me out before.. but i know your probably getting sick of reading me babil on about this lol and pretty sure gmfan83 is sick of me jacking his thread as well but im still racking my brain thinking of how i figured out the body or powertrain areas :-? looks when i go home this weekend ill have to take the jeep and have one of my old co-workers unhook something and work it out from there

ill try and figure it out and if i remember to ill pm you tell what i found wheather it work my way or not
 
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