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Battery Relocation

619 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  ponykiller
Info please on anyone who done them. Kill swithes, jumper terminals Etc. Starting the setup for no more street. :D
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Moroso makes some decent kits.

Or you can assemble your own using the appropriate size wire, terminals and a proper battery box. Also get a main kill switch to cut power off, this also requires re-wiring the alternator so that the kill switch functions as it is supposed to, I.E. actually shut the car off when the switch is turned off. ;)
I have some questions about this relocation also, more along the lines of correct wire and grounding in the trunk. First off I have already done the relocation and so far so good. I ran a four gauge wire from the alternator to the starter and then from there another four gauge to a dis block on the driver strut tower. From there I go to a two gauge wire all the way to the trunk where the battery is located on the drivers side rear. Ground wire is the same two gauge from the battery to the grounding point. Now I drilled a hole through the trunk floor and through the lower edge of the underframe. From there I sanded the grounding spot down to bare metal and then used a bolt and a modified threaded u-clip to tie the ground wire down to the trunk floor.

All of my wiring is car audio wiring, and my battery is an optima red top. With this setup, does anyone see any problems that could later cause battery or alternator failure? One worry is current loss due to the long length of wiring to the trunk, thus also decreasing the charging ability of the altenator. But with the use of two gauge wire I don't see why current loss would really come into play. Also my alternator is rated at 100 amps. Any info or suggestions would be very helpful, thanks.
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wckdz24 yours sounds well thought out and i don't forsee any probs.....

for you guys that want better weight distribution for handling,a batt relocation is the only way to go....if you want it on the cheap you can get a batt box w/holddowns and the wiring from any 84-91 BMW 3 series(318i,323i,325i,325is,325e) at a salvage yard :D the batts in the trunk

for you guys that are building a car for hard acceleration(alot of strip time) DO NOT relocate the battery it will take up to a .5 sec off your e.t...i know it sounds like B.S. but FWD needs all the weight up front or the weight transfer will kill your traction:read more wheel spin....no other changes [email protected] to an [email protected] on the same night
The engine and transmisson should be plenty of weight up front. Moving your battery to the trunk shouldn't cause you to lose traction. If you are building a car for hard acceleration, you probably have a great suspension and don't have to worry about weight transfer. If after installing a good suspension, you are getting traction problems, I would have to say that you need tires that are made for ultra traction or sport (Falken's, Pirelli's, Nitto's) and not for comfort or treadwear(Michelins, Toyo's, Continentals).

As for the battery relocation issue. I used 2 guage wire and just extended the positive and negative battery wire all the way to the trunk. No problems at all so far, works like a charm. The first time I did it, I used wire that was too thin and it would take a few seconds to turn the ignition over, but it always started. The resistance was too high when trying to start the car so I bought thicker wire and it works great now.
the weight of the batt isn't the issue,it's the weight moving rear from the center of gravity(around the "A"pillar on a 2 door v-6 Z24)multiplies itself 4-5 times over,so now that 15lb OPTIMA(or 50 lb OEM) battery just became two bags of cement in your trunk,weight distribution IS chassis setup...i have no rear suspension squat at the track(solid steel bars that bolt inplace of the shocks) and dfor tires i run M/T et drags 24.5x9.0-13=1.77 60ft,hell there are ALOT of RWD cars that can't do that and i don't spray until the 60ft and 2nd gear...all motor w/4k rpm on launch and shift at 6500
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