[blackwidowz24]

About 2-3 weeks ago my check engine light came on. Ran the codes and it was showing the Map Sensor, and Crank Sensor. Well when I would drive it a lil the light would go off so I just ignored it.

I was going to the gf's house for so that we could go to church and I got behind someone who was driving extremely slow. Well my tranny is bad and doesn't want to downshift so the only spot to pass on these Tennessee roads was in my view so I kicked it and went off and left them. Soon after about 1-2 miles down the road it completely died on me and I slowly coasted downhill (W/O powersteering, :lol: ) and pulled over at a church. I tried to start it back up and it's acting like I'm not getting gas. It just sputters, and dies. Doesn't idle at all. Popped the hood and I've recently put that heat wrap over my manifold and the plastic blue wire loom I had on the wires to the IAC was almost melted and the car was extremely hot!!!! I let cool for awhile untill I had help to pull me back to the house. I also had to take my front air dam off so that it would damage the goods. And almost forgot that it would backfire outta the TB, so hopefully I left you great Cavalier Specialists Mechanics enough info to please help me out.

 

[scott0999]

its prolly the CPS. its on the back of the engine torwards the bottom. the knock sensor (the bigger thing) will be right above it

you can test it with an ohm meter to be sure its bad

 

[blackwidowz24]

its prolly the CPS. its on the back of the engine torwards the bottom. the knock sensor (the bigger thing) will be right above it

you can test it with an ohm meter to be sure its bad

Yeah I know exactly where it is. I've already had to replace it a couple years ago. I was told that the easiest way to check it is if there was a small hairline crack in it. Also the magnet wouldn't be good. Like I've always said over, and over.....I'm a really good Autobody Technician I just haven't really got it down to the mechanic part yet. How exactly do you check it with the ohm meter. I have one but really haven't used it yet? :lol:

 

[1fastcavi]

wait... it backfired out the TB? thats extremly odd... the ONLY time iv seen a vehicle back fire from the tb/carb is when its out of time.. can the CPS cause it to do that? thats extremly odd... sounds like you broke a timing chain almost..

 

[scott0999]

well its usually a function of a voltmeter... you just set it to ohms and connect the leads to the CPS

 

[blackwidowz24]

wait... it backfired out the TB? thats extremly odd... the ONLY time iv seen a vehicle back fire from the tb/carb is when its out of time.. can the CPS cause it to do that? thats extremly odd... sounds like you broke a timing chain almost..

That's what I've always thought. If so how exactly do I check it. I didn't know that these cars could jump time due to it having a Ignition Moduler, and coil packs.

Scott: Thanks for the good input. I'll check it out tomorrow morning and let you guys know. Anything else? I already went out and bought the stupid MAP Sensor. The stupid little thing costed me almost $60bucks!!!!! :x

 

[blackwidowz24]

Ok I put the new MAP Sensor on and then I hooked the ground on the battery back up. Went to start and nothing. All it did was cranked. I unhooked the battery and put the old one back on and it fired up. Sounded like crap but it fired up. Well I thought maybe I didn't hook it up correctly so I did the same and put the new one back on and it also to finally fired up. My idleing is way outta whack but that's probably due to my car having to relearn correct?

Well I drove it for about a mile at a high speed to get my car to normal running temp and went back to my house and turned off my car. Then when I went to restart my service light came on. Turned it off and ran the code and it was 2flash pause 2flash, TPS circuit low. What is this and how can I fix it. Also when I went back out to test it again only the code 1flash pause 2flash, No reference pulses to ECM. That's normal though correct. But when I ran it before my MAP said was wrong it said it was my Knock Sensor. Now it's not reading that and to be correct what is the Knock sensor? Please get back to me as soon as possible!!!!

Thanks in Advance

 

[z26guy]

I say check Knock Sensor also :wink: It happened on my Beretta Z26 just after hard accelration and did it ever backfire through the intake I though I had blown something internal :roll: Next morning the car start right up but when it hit normal operation temp the problem was back :lol:

BTW the knock sensor sends your spark signal :wink:

 

[isaachayes]

Uhm the knock sensor does not send you a spark signal. The CPS does. The knock sensor only is there to detect knock and then computer retards your timing a bit.

It's your CPS, I'm like 90% sure. Did you pull a plug wire and verify you have no spark when it wouldn't start?

BTW DON'T get autozone replacement parts. I did that when my CPS went out and the new autozone one went out less than a year.

The TPS is your throttle position sensor. If your IAC wires and stuff is melting, check the wires to the TPS since they are all close to each other. Maybe the TPS is bad too?

But the main problem is the CPS I bet. When mine went it was back firing like mad (because of all the un-burnt fuel in the exhaust from missing out)

 

[blackwidowz24]

Uhm the knock sensor does not send you a spark signal. The CPS does. The knock sensor only is there to detect knock and then computer retards your timing a bit.

It's your CPS, I'm like 90% sure. Did you pull a plug wire and verify you have no spark when it wouldn't start?

BTW DON'T get autozone replacement parts. I did that when my CPS went out and the new autozone one went out less than a year.

The TPS is your throttle position sensor. If your IAC wires and stuff is melting, check the wires to the TPS since they are all close to each other. Maybe the TPS is bad too?

But the main problem is the CPS I bet. When mine went it was back firing like mad (because of all the un-burnt fuel in the exhaust from missing out)

Just put the Map sensor on and it runs finally. The service light went out, when I came back from testing it the light came back on. It said it was my Knock Sensor. What happens if I drive it with a bad Knock Sensor, and would a knock sensor in a 3.1 work. I have a 90 Cutlass Supreme FE3 with a 3.1 MPFI in it and all it does is sit. Can't find anyone to buy it.

 

[z26guy]

Uhm the knock sensor does not send you a spark signal. The CPS does. The knock sensor only is there to detect knock and then computer retards your timing a bit.

It's your CPS, I'm like 90% sure. Did you pull a plug wire and verify you have no spark when it wouldn't start?

BTW DON'T get autozone replacement parts. I did that when my CPS went out and the new autozone one went out less than a year.

The TPS is your throttle position sensor. If your IAC wires and stuff is melting, check the wires to the TPS since they are all close to each other. Maybe the TPS is bad too?

But the main problem is the CPS I bet. When mine went it was back firing like mad (because of all the un-burnt fuel in the exhaust from missing out)

SORRY! I had it mixed up :roll: Anyway switch that knock sensor :wink: Any 3.1 muliti-port one will work :wink:

 

[blackwidowz24]

Thanks Z26!!!! Now the fun object is where is it on the 3.1?lol Is it in the same spot as the 2.8. I can see mine from the top but on the cutlass I can't see it. I guess I'll have to jack it up and check it out from the bottom. I just hope I can get this to work. Thanks againd guys!!!!