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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i changed my clutch this weekend. an ez stage 3. that went really smoothly, also changed over some stuff while things were apart.

so i get it back together today and try to start. all the starter does is click really quickly. nothing else.

the clutch pedal is really really soft very little resistance, external slave was unbolted and left hanging. i thought maybe since it was so soft the clutch wasnt disengaging but in neutral it still just clicked.

i dropped the tranny side of the engine and pulled the tranny from there, but i forgot to undo the battery-starter cable. it stretched a bit but not too far.

so i check over the wires to the starter. looks ok, continuity is good. physically the starter looks fine. so try again and nothing. not even a single click from the starter. i short out the solenoid to the battery and that works just fine. try from the ignition again, still dead.

so now im thinking maybe i got a bad clutch set... not cool. with the car on stands me and my friend try turning both wheels forward in 1st gear and the flywheel isnt budging........ uhhh pressure plate hitting tranny housing!!?!?? but the tranny went on so easily!

i hope its just the starter.

why is the clutch pedal so soft?

could i actually have killed the starter?

is there a relay or fuse hidden somewhere for the starter?

and is it normal for the pressure plate fingers to be noticably depressed after torquing it down? (with the EZ pressure plate)
 

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...another EZclutch horror story :evil:

Good luck with your troubles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well im not blaming the clutch just yet. the started isnt working right either way.

should i be able turn both wheels forward in 1st gear and see the flywheel spinning? or is there too much drag through the diff and tranny to be able to do that?

most of the ez clutch troubles that ive seen are with the phase2 j's nvg tranny with internal slave. which i dont have, ive got the getrag with external.
 

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If you are in first gear and you try to turn the wheels, you are trying to turn over the engine too so thats not going to work. if you didn't change the slave and its really soft then you can only hope its the clutch diaphragm is the reason it's soft (vs the old one) or else you might have blown the slave or master caused buy someone stepping on the clutch when the slave is out.

Nice rims btw :) and good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
nobody touched anything while the slave was disconnected i made sure of that. last time i did my clutch on my white 90 i replaced a stocker and it did the same thing. it eventually got better though.

there must be an easy way to check for clearance in the tranny without removing it again.

and thanks, yours look pretty familiar too
 

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u say it works fine by shorting out the solenoid then there's your problem replace the solenoid. probably did something to it when you stretched the wires

edit: and to test the clutch to see if it's releasing properly before u actually drive the car, get someone to depress the pedal with the car in gear and try to turn the engine with a ratchet or bar car dosent try to move and eng turns freely between compression strokes clutch good, car trys to move engine turns over hard try bleeding slave cylinder and make sure the arm that it pushes on is in the right place if it was removed! These same issues happened to me with a oem replacement.
 

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I'm almost positive your problem is the ez clutch pressure plate hitting the bellhousing causing the enging to not turn over. Happen to about 42384732984723897 persons now :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i had the starter tested, its 100% fine.

so i throw the battery on a charger for about an hour. gauge showed it was a bit low. i let it charge and turn the key. nothing. at all.

so i check the wiring incase something else was stretched and ripped. everything looks ok.

i check voltage at the main post of the starter to gnd. 14.5v (charger is still on).

next i checked the voltage at the solenoid pull-in post to ground while my dad cranks from the ignition. barely over 9v. the solenoid makes a barely audible click, with my head right under there. i can just barely feel the solenoid engage.

fusible links burnt out? physically they look fine. theres 3 going to the main post plus the line direct to battery positive.

oh and i tried to turn over the engine with a breaker on the crank pulley but that didnt work too good. i started to round out the bolt.. a good thing i already have a udp
 

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91z24 said:
Sorry to say, but you will have to pull the tranny again and looks whats going on... Like I said, I'm pretty positive the pressure plate hit the bellhousing :wink:
yep,.. you should be able to turn the motor pretty easily by hand. if you can't budge it, then you have problems with your pressure plate binding up.
 

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jsiek said:
ok! my clutch is hitting the bellhousing!

what about my starter problem?? any thoughts on that? unless i get the starter fixed the clutch problem is a moot point
i dont think you understand... your starter is fine.. it just cant turn the engine because the clutch is binding up against the bellhousing.
 

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pezed said:
jsiek said:
ok! my clutch is hitting the bellhousing!

what about my starter problem?? any thoughts on that? unless i get the starter fixed the clutch problem is a moot point
i dont think you understand... your starter is fine.. it just cant turn the engine because the clutch is binding up against the bellhousing.
Exactly, maybe we could have been more specific, if the EZ pressure plate is hitting the bellhousing, that alone will keep the starter from turning the engine over, causing the exact problem you describe. We are saying that to you because it happen to numerous people with the EZ clutch so if you double checked everything and you starter was working before, I would definitly put my money on the pressure plate hitting the bellhousing problem :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i wasnt saying you were wrong. in fact your are right. BUT why am i only getting 9v to the solenoid post on the starter from the ignition switch!

can i just grind out the bell housing to make it work? ive got a spare tranny laying here too.
 

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the soleniod probably burnt up when you were trying to turn the engine over just go pick up a new one they're less than $20! As for the clutch problem you should be able to shave a bit off the inside of the bellhousing for clearance. I've never done it myself but can't see that it would hurt anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ding ding ding to the guys who insisted it was the clutch!

and the solenoid works. i jumped the solenoid direct to the battery and it cranked over just fine. at least tried to with a seized flywheel.

so from the ign switch its only getting 9v. i dont get it. with the engine dropped today i thoroughly check all the wires. nothing is even remotely tight.

i quickly yanked the tranny... and i will be doing some grinding :evil: :evil:

quality is poor, fun camera phone but you can see it

edit... hold up on the grinding. i'll try to get the right pressure plate first.

this is what i emailed to them (with my 100% feedback)

"
BEFORE I leave feed back i would like to bring to your attention that the pressure plate I received does NOT fit inside my transmission. After bolting down the transmission the pressure plate is wedged between the flywheel and the bell housing. The engine is seized like this.

I have taken pictures to show this. If you would like to see them I can email them to you directly.

I would like the correct pressure plate mailed to me quickly, and that it be of equivalent specifications to the stage 3 piece that it should have originally been.

I will return the incorrect pressure plate once I have recieved the correct one."
 

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Do you have an internal slave or external slave system? I bet they gave you a pressure plate for the opposite than what you have. Unless they suck that bad now and produced junk parts.
 
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