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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Changed ICM, coil packs, spark plugs, IAC valve, map sensor, crank positioning sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, and fuel filter. Still getting crank no start, or will start but die out immediately. Problem originally would only not start 15-20 mins after shutting it off while it’s hot but would start back up not a problem if waited for engine to be cold or if I started it again right after. Looking for what could be the most likely problem?
 

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I had a similar problem, but it was the fuel pump. Maybe you just got a faulty new one?
I also had a weird starting running problem that turned out to be the knock sensor wire was almost broken in 2.
Check compression, fuel pressure at the rail, clean air filter, and for spark at the wires.
Or look at the MAF sensor.
Just spit balling here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had a similar problem, but it was the fuel pump. Maybe you just got a faulty new one?
I also had a weird starting running problem that turned out to be the knock sensor wire was almost broken in 2.
Check compression, fuel pressure at the rail, clean air filter, and for spark at the wires.
Or look at the MAF sensor.
Just spit balling here.
Thx for the response but the only thing I haven’t checked outta those is the compression but when it does start and run it runs decently nice so I didn’t think it was a problem with compression. Ended up checking the injectors with a multimeter and it does should 4 are bad so I’m gonna swap those out and hopefully she’s good after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thx for the response but the only thing I haven’t checked outta those is the compression but when it does start and run it runs decently nice so I didn’t think it was a problem with compression. Ended up checking the injectors with a multimeter and it does should 4 are bad so I’m gonna swap those out and hopefully she’s good after that.
Also I tested new fuel pump before install
 

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1988 Z24 Coupe 5spd, 1988 Wagon w/94 Auto Drivetrain, 1992 Z24 Convertible Auto, 1994 Z24 Coupe 5spd
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Don't skimp on injector. I strongly suggest using Standard Motor Products FJ105 injectors.
You can normally buy a 6 pack set for a little less than buying them individually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't skimp on injector. I strongly suggest using Standard Motor Products FJ105 injectors.
You can normally buy a 6 pack set for a little less than buying them individually.
Got injectors changed. Ran beautiful for a day. Now she doesn’t want to start again. Have good pressure at fuel rail, have spark, and changed out almost all sensors already. Anyone have a clue of what this could be?
 

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Bad ECU?
I had to replace my 87 ECU before. Had a really weird running issue that I could not diagnose. Then I was checking connections under the dash and bumped the ECU and the problem went away. I bumped it again and it came back. Replaced the ECU and it went away for good.
 

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1988 Z24 Coupe 5spd, 1988 Wagon w/94 Auto Drivetrain, 1992 Z24 Convertible Auto, 1994 Z24 Coupe 5spd
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Call around some local garages, ones that have been around for a while. Asked them if they can scan OBD1. Quite possibly someone still has the capability to check it.

Here is the self check the MIL does in relation to the Run position of the key.
When you turn the key to Run, does the MIL flash on - off 1 time, then quickly comes on and stay on?

Key Run
MIL ON
MIL OFF
MIL ON, stays on until key turned off?
 
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