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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I have sifted through many a topics and cant find anything. (is there a search button) Anyways, I am about to takle my crank sensor. I know its in a horrible place. And i hope its not broken. Anways, does anyone have some tips for this? Thanks for reading.

On a long and drawn out side note:
My baby is coughing...she has signs of dying and I am trying to revive her.
New Cat, EGR, Knock, Plugs. We has to make a new PROM after throwing the KS code. And at some point she developed a new problem. Sounds like a helicopter. Got better after the cat but is still there. Very rich, exhaust is producing a lot of condensation. Its super horrible once its ran around the block. Very Sad....maybe someone has some help they could give me? 330,000 km.

Much appreciated and I absolutely am thankful for this site. Take Care
 

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1988 Z24 Coupe 5spd, 1988 Wagon w/94 Auto Drivetrain, 1992 Z24 Convertible Auto, 1994 Z24 Coupe 5spd
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chevygurlz24 said:
Hello All,

(is there a search button)

Very Sad....maybe someone has some help they could give me? 330,000 km.
See picture below. It works, but often you'll have to weed through the results to find your subject matter.

Has the timing chain/gears/guide been changed yet? There are threads and comments posted here about how these engines are prone to needing them replaced around your mark. I replaced them in the Coupe at around 190,000 miles. It was certainly stretched and clear it needed to be changed. I wasn't having any running issues prior to changing it. I just did it because I read it was wise to. Glad I did too after seeing it. I noticed the engine did run smoother in all conditions afterwards.
I used a CompCams set. I suggest you too buy a quality set.

If the CPS is dirty with oil grime, clean it up before you try to remove it. Might help to spray some penetrating oil around it before you try to remove it. If it is stuck, you can take a course thread wood screw (hex head ones are best) and screw it into the center of the CPS. Then you can use vice grips to clamp down on the screw and gently work it out.

Sorry I can't help much at finding the exact problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh I am ever grateful of what you have told me. I know, its an enigma...
I will let you know how it goes. I was hoping she would make the 10 year mark with me. (Feb 19th) So hopefully we can resolve it. Just tough with busy times and darkness. (I dont have a garage) But its sure weighing on me. You would think after all these years (18years total) of having one I would be able to close my eyes and just know by intuition. I will use that little tiny search button...lol Must have missed it. I thank you.

Side note question. So, I shall test it first before tackling it? Do you have insight? I am also going to start with the coolant temp sensor as I can see the wires run around the area of the o2 and knock and all that. Could be a faulty connection etc as we were working around that area. But i def will look into your suggestion. Thanks again and sorry for the long windedness. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What kind of job was the timing? I have had the oil pan off before to do the gasket and whatnot and could see the sprocket and whatnot. Is it super involved, could be done in a day sort of thing? Sorry to take up your time but I am desperate. I want her to run again. I should have known to replace this earlier. There isn't a huge following in my parts for these cars. But she is my hotrod and am so happy when I am driving her around.
Take care and thank you so much.
 

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1988 Z24 Coupe 5spd, 1988 Wagon w/94 Auto Drivetrain, 1992 Z24 Convertible Auto, 1994 Z24 Coupe 5spd
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Changing the timing set isn't too bad of a job. You can do it in a day, no problem. I'll try to get some pictures from the service manual to help you through it.
 

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1988 Z24 Coupe 5spd, 1988 Wagon w/94 Auto Drivetrain, 1992 Z24 Convertible Auto, 1994 Z24 Coupe 5spd
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Here are the pictures I promised. Hope they help.

You'll need pullers to get the crankshaft balancer off, as well as the sprockets. You can rent them at Auto Zone, if you don't already have some.

Here is the timing set I put in my 88.
<LINK_TEXT text="http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... HEV466Time">http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=3201&Category_Code=CHEV466Time</LINK_TEXT>

You should replace the chain damper too.

Notice the files are listed in order of size, not name (in this case number). Just follow the numbers (1, 2, 3, 4) for the correct order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh thank you so much.
I spoke with my long time mechanic and he said that he doesnt think I am dealing with that sort of issue. But i appreciate that and will consider it once I can figure out the first and get it at least half running. I put a MAP sensor in it last night. And it was still horrible and seems to get worse everytime I change something and take it for a run. So far, MAP, EGR, PVC, Knock, PROM (had to get one made), Cat, hmmm...Checked for vacuum leaks visually. Next will be O2 and Temp Sensor.
TPS was done not too long ago. Its possible it is injectors...I just can't get to taking off the top cuz I am busy playing ball. Life is totally getting in the way. :roll:
 

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1988 Z24 Coupe 5spd, 1988 Wagon w/94 Auto Drivetrain, 1992 Z24 Convertible Auto, 1994 Z24 Coupe 5spd
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O2 and MAP should have thrown codes and would probably go into limp home mode.

Have you checked fuel pressure, regulator, injectors, coils, compression? Hooked it up to a scan tool?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey, been away.
So no, I have not put it on scan. I have no access to that. I'm limited, that's the shame of it. On specific tools and time. I did the O2 sensor and it didn't helicopter the way it was but totally shut down on me. Limp mode would be one way of putting it. Basically the more gas I gave it, the RPM would lower. Would only putt home when I test drove around the block, barely.
Next step will definately be checking and changing the coil packs and/or module. I dont know how to check the fuel pressure. Do I need to take the top off to get to the fuel rails and whatnot or can I test using the schrader valve on the side there? For owning the same cars for 18 years, im sure feeling like a newbie right now. I appreciate your helping.
Thank You :love:
 

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Fuel pressure test is done using the shrader valve and pressure gauge.

before you go throwing parts the car, find someone who has a way to connect to the ECM and collect live data. For codes, you simply need a paper clip to retrieve those. With what you describe you should definitely being seeing some codes popping up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Heya...
Thanks for the reply. No codes present. I have a few jumper wires in the car and have done that. Now the car just starts and dies. I will be working at it tomorrow testing wiring and connections and thing. When it dies, I can hear the fuel pump still trying for a second or two after it dies. I work at a parts supply so throwing parts at it isn't coating me as much. But I'm baffled. I think I mentioned what's been done. Oxygen sensor also. Tomorrow I will check ICM and coils and change out the CPS. Work and ball have been getting it the way. I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I don't want to give up yet. I think if the coils and pack don't pan out it's onto the fuel injection stuff. Bleh. Thanks again!
 
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