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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Problem:

After the engine warms, you'll be driving with just my foot slightly on the gas. Car starts to stall. If you have you foot mashed on the gas, no problems (yet). Car runs fine at idle.

Things replaced:
Fuel Pump, Filter, Wires & Plugs, Fixed a Vacuum Leak. Other parts not related; front brake hoses, oil leak fixed, new oil pressure sending unit.

Fuel Injectors have been checked and they all read 12-12.2 ohms.
 

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Hallie,

When the car stalls, I am assuming that it will start right back up... or will it take a little bit of cranking to get the car to start up again?

Does the car actually stall? Or does it just miss? What exactly does it feel/sound like? Does it happen at any particular RPM. Any codes?

Have you thrown on a fuel pressure gauge to see what it is doing at idle and under no load revving?

It sounds like you have checked out the fuel system pretty well. How about the ignition system?

Brad
 

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<COLOR color="olive">Check for a vacuum leak. My Throttle Body was lose and caused some irregular throttle work......</COLOR>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
its more like a miss, we tested the fuel pressure it was fine, the car normally acts up around 30-40mph with slight pressure on the pedal.

i'll check for vacuum leaks again
 

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scott0999 said:
test the coil packs and ignition module
I don't know if its your problem or not but mine done that awhile back. It would stall and then fire right back up for about a week or two than one morning I had to go to the bodyshop and didn't fire at all. And it was the Ignition Module.
 

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yup as well did mine almost drove me insane set of msd's and a used module and i was good to go
 

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I would agree that it is most likely an ignition problem.

Either the Ignition Control Module or the Crank trigger (Crank Position Sensor).

I would check for vaccum leaks as well, as that can act very similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok so after I checked my injectors and hooked everything back up and bolted down the plenum.

I started throwing a code.

12 is first, followed by 33.

Which is the Map Sensor.

So now I'm guess I'm going to try it 1st since new ignition stuff is costly. BTW where does the vaccuum hose on the map sensor go to? anybody know the size of the hose, might as well replace.

Yeah I know I'm a lot of trouble, but I'm no mechanic and since none of the boys of the house will help I have to do try it myself :(
 

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Haynes repair manual FTMFW!!!!!eleven!!!1!!!

The MAP sensor will be located either on the firewall, just to the driver side of the heater blower motor, or attached to the rear of the plenum. Most likely on the firewall for yours though.

The hose attaches to the penum, just follow it from the MAP sensor and you'll see axactly where it attaches. It may connect to a plastic hose at the rear of the plenum, it's been a while since I screwed around with a genII 660.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yeah i know where it is cause a while back Dave (WL2) told me that might be the problem. I just didn't know if I would have to remove the plenum to get to the rest of the hose.

I plan on going back out after I eat to take a full look at it.
 

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OT, but I never noticed that you had some time in there to convert your Cav to a right hand drive. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Six_Shooter said:
OT, but I never noticed that you had some time in there to convert your Cav to a right hand drive. :lol:
hehe, told ya i can do appearance not mechanics :)

thanks guys I got the hose off and I'm off to the parts store.
 
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