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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when puttin in a new clutch master and slave cylinder what do i have to do to bleed it? the instructions say i have to hold it on an angle and do some shit, the service manual says something else, and my mechanic says its self bleeding and i just have to press the clutch a coupel times
 

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No sure how to do it exactly, but I am pretty sure it has to be done. Mine had to be bleed a few times over the first week or so to get it to work right.

'Self adjusting' anything never works well, check out your 'Self adjusting' rear brakes....I bet they need to be set up some for them to actually work right now..lol
 

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The GM manual for my car (Muncie, 1990) says the system CANNOT be bled. If it leaks or is not functioning right, both the master cylinder and actuator have to be replaced as a unit. I'll dig up my manual and double check to be sure, tho.
 

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we have hydraulic clutchs, just pump it to build up pressure.

When i replaced my tranny with a 90 muncie, for the first 3 days before i got to drive it i had to non stop pumping to build up the pressure then after the 3rd day she has kept it and is running fine now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well its all back together and bled, and i have a pedal now. but it still won't do anything. its like the clutch isn't even releasing at all when i press the pedal. its squeaky too.
 

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my clutch after i did the tranny didnt werk until i road her into 1st gear without the clutch. Push it into 1st gear and keep forcing it and the car will start to move, while doing that keep pumping the clutch, u should be able to ride it fully into 1st then after 1st the clutch should werk, well atleast mine did.
 

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when I did my swap, , and had the slave cylinder removed from the tranny, i accidentally pushed the pdeal. This cause double the fluid to go into the cylinder. I had to re-bleed the clutch. Since there is no bleeder screw, I just seperated the cylinder from the line, then I used tape to hold the ram in, then i basically drip filled the cylinder until it was full. then, I pushed in the clutch pedal, and put my finger over the end of the line so that when the pedal was released it wouldnt suck in air. then, I stuck the two halves back togeather and its worked fine ever since.
 

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I installed a 91 5 spd trany on my 89, and heres how I bleed it: first put the slave cylinder on the hydraulic line, second take the cap of the cluth master cylinder resovoir, and the rubber seal that sits inside of it, then start pumping the shit out of the slave cylinder, you should see the air bubbles come out in the resovoir. (make sure you have fluid in it first!) pump the rod in out of the slave cylinder a bunch of times! then when you think you've pumped it enuff, or there is no more air coming out hold the rod in the slave cylinder as far as it will go, hold it there install your rubber seal that sits inside your clutch master cylinder, then your cap, and your done! worked great for me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
jonathan said:
I installed a 91 5 spd trany on my 89, and heres how I bleed it: first put the slave cylinder on the hydraulic line, second take the cap of the cluth master cylinder resovoir, and the rubber seal that sits inside of it, then start pumping the shit out of the slave cylinder, you should see the air bubbles come out in the resovoir. (make sure you have fluid in it first!) pump the rod in out of the slave cylinder a bunch of times! then when you think you've pumped it enuff, or there is no more air coming out hold the rod in the slave cylinder as far as it will go, hold it there install your rubber seal that sits inside your clutch master cylinder, then your cap, and your done! worked great for me!
yep thats pretty much what it says to do in the service manual. i replaced it all but it diddnt make a difference :( i think i need an ew clutch fork, throw out bearing, or clutch :cry: kinda hope its a clutch so i can get a bully :)
 
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