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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so what would be involved in this?
has anybody successfully had this done to their cars? and i know a 3.4 would be better but that's not what i wanna hear so any help is really appreciated
i know there is different cam, intake plenum and exhaust manifold...oh and the Turbo itself...but what other things would i need to get? and do you think my engine would need rebuilt? the entire plan would be to rebuild my 2.0 or get one in better condition then convert it to Turbo 2.0......thanks guys
 

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Isn't he turbo motor a over head cam design?? Very different motor. I don't think you can swap any parts from it over.. Might as well just design a turbo around the current motor..
 

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isaachayes said:
Isn't he turbo motor a over head cam design?? Very different motor. I don't think you can swap any parts from it over.. Might as well just design a turbo around the current motor..
I dont know about the turbo motor being ohc, but i do think i read that somewhere. If that is the case, i totally agree - it would be better to design a turbo system around the current motor..

I've never felt that the ohv motor was a very strong motor, but i'm sure others might feel different..
 

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hpjunkie said:
yes the 2.0 turbo motor is ohc
And so is the current engine is his Sunbird.

You can bolt on all of the external parts on your engine, from the turbo version.

You will also need the ECM and wiring harness as that is different, along with converting to dizzy from DIS. The turbo ECM does not have the proper inputs and outputs to run the OHC DIS system.

Some people will say that the N/A OHC engine is very weak and you shouldn't even attemptthis, others will say it will work foine, at stock boost levels. I have not seen any conclusive evidance one way or the other, though I'm sure it would survive just fine at moderate boost levels, as long as the tune is good.
 

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In addition to the excellent advice above, here are some tips which can make a potentially difficult project somewhat easier.

Do not use the turbo engine intake, fuel rail, or TB on the 94. The TB is an extremely small unit made by Holley which requires a throttle and detent cables specifically for that setup. The intake, although boldly cast with TURBO and painted the fastest red available, has a small inlet bored specifically for the Holley TB and does not lend itself easily to a larger unit. The fuel rail is also a somewhat special piece which has the inlet and outlet at opposite ends compared to the 94 rail, as well as having a fuel pressure regulator which is completely different from anything on any other GM cars. The 94 TB is larger, the 94 fuel rail already connects to your car, and the 94 FPR is much easier to find if there's a problem. Keep the 94 parts but be sure and use a set of 30# injectors. Also be sure the pump is able to supply the capacity of fuel needed.

The 89 wiring harness will be substantially different from the 94. Not just different as to the ECM connections, but different from C100 (big connector by the master cylinder) all the way to the passenger side body connector. The 'turbo car harness will have none of the provisions for your ABS, will route some wiring to the instrument cluster differently, and will route wiring for the windwhield wipers differently. Just last month I installed a 94 engine into a 91 car and modified the 94 harness to fit.

Instead of using the turbo harness, re-pin the connectors to match the turbo car pinout and add wires where necessary. There shouldn't be too many additions... some of the wires previously used for the crank sensor and ignition module can be re-routed to the distributor. You will probably want to switch to a 10 or 12 gauge power wire to the coil like GM did to ensure plenty of current is available. The only addition I can think of at this time is the wastegate solenoid. If you want to be really trick you can machine a 7 notch reluctor wheel to bolt to the 94 crank and switch to DIS from a 2.0 or pre 94 2.2 Cavalier.

The compression of the N/A engine is higher than the turbo engine and the parts books show different exhaust valves between the two engines. The cam is the same and the valve diameters are equal between the two. For mild boost I wouldn't worry about the stock valves as long as I had a good tune. But I'd install a small intercooler even with relatively low amounts of boost. GM calibrated the turbo birds with a lot of timing and you can be sure that increased compression will make detonation more likely. Cooling incoming air can work to prevent problems.

Exhaust manifolds are available brand new if you can't find a used one. Look on Evilbay. Turbos which bolt onto the stock flange are T25's and T28s. Some people have found that the TGP turbo is a nice match for a mostly stock turbo 2.0.

The OHV engine isn't bulletproof by any means. The turbo engine has forged pistons and can take a little more abuse. Not so with the N/A versions. Resist the temptation to "turn up the boost" and stick to higher octane fuels if you don't have the tools to monitor ALDL data and burn your own chips. This should allow you to have a reliable and trouble free car.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
wow that is some very helpful advice
and yes my engine is a ohc......so it is the same engine just minus the "fastest red" available..haha
but this is just an idea
i like smaller boosted engines
oh well i'll just keep diggin i guess
but i swear somebody on this site has done it
i swear...
 

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jowek70 said:
wow that is some very helpful advice
and yes my engine is a ohc......so it is the same engine just minus the "fastest red" available..haha
but this is just an idea
i like smaller boosted engines
oh well i'll just keep diggin i guess
but i swear somebody on this site has done it
i swear...
ncc2000 i think his name was put a 2.0 turbo motor in his 94 sunbird, last i saw on here he was trying to sell it i think
 
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