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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have searched and read such an enormous amount of information on this that it's starting to get a little confusing. Here's my problem:

I just bought a 1989 z24 with the 2.8 like three weeks ago. I knew that it needed a new alternator and that the check engine light came on every once in a while. It had a bit of a rough idle when I got it. Well, last week the alternator seized on me. I replaced the alternator and the belt but the belt tensioner was seized also. It actually broke when I tried to turn it. I replaced that too. It drove great for a few hours. It sounded a lot better without the squeeling alternator. Then it just cut out on me out of no where. I did get a check engine light and it gave me codes for the MAP sensor andt the IAT sensor. I checked andt the IAT sensor was unplugged. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks anywhere including the MAP sensor. I cleared the codes and started it. It ran like it never had a problem. I went inside and came out like 5 mins later and the check engine light was on again. I turned it off and pulled the codes and now it gives me a 45: rich exhaust.

So my question is, Do you think this is still the MAP sensor and if I replace it would that solve my problems? I just don't want to buy an expensive sensor and have it not be the problem.

Also if this fixes the problem would it be alright to use the seafoam cleaner stuff right away or should I run it for a few weeks first.

Thanks for your help guys. This site is great!
 

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Could be any numerous things.

Check the O2 Sensor, they're around 30 Dollars CDN.

I got the same code for my Coolant Temp Sensor (the one on the side of the thermostat housing) because it was dumping too much fuel, causing it to run rich, and had a bad idle.
 

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map sensor could make it run pig rich. I had an 86 s-10 blazer with the 2.8 and it fouled the plugs something fierce. Pull a plug and see what color it is, should be brownish color. Black means too rich and white( i think ) is bad. Throw in a different map and it might help you. You should be able to pocket one from a junkyard.
 

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Is your fan always on? It could be the CTS for the ECM, what kind of voltage reading are you getting from it. If it doesn't go into closed loop and you have an accurate voltage reading at the CTS, then it could be an oxygen sensor issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so I replaced the MAP sensor and the O2 sensor and it does seem to run better. I drove it around for a while and it ran great. Then I went back out about 5 min later and again it's dead. starts for just a second then cuts out like it's not getting any fuel. I did notice that the fuel pump doesn't prime every time that I go to start it. Do you think it could be the fuel pump? I don't know why I would be getting a rich exhaust if the fuel pump isn't performing up to par. I'm running out of money and time here so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,

BUD
 
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