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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know this has been in many topics before. i just cant find the specifics i need. as some of you know, ive decided to buy a 3400 top end for the 3.4 i have. and mods feel free to slap me upside the head and move this to general auto if you want. :wink: so obviously, i need to buy pistons. well ive been dragging this build out for over a year now so whats another winter. my main questions pertain to what brand of pistons (forged) to buy and rods. im actually not quite sure if the rods i have (when properly strengthened) will hold up to the power i want. 400 whp is my new goal under boost. id like to find a piston and pin thats lighter than stock (like diamond racing?) and rods to match. i also want the crank knife edged, polished, and nitraded with 2 billet center mains. oiling system will be blueprinted as well. now with a 400whp goal in mind this seems like overkill, but i just dont want this thing to come apart. so if anyone wants to throw a link or some sort of a lead, that would be great.

Thanks!
 

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Oboy. Can I confuse things a little? You want 400 hp, ok. Any idea what RPM you're shooting for?
torque to make 400 hp @ RPM

rpm tq
4000 525
4500 467
5000 420
5500 381
6000 350
6500 323
7000 300
7500 280
8000 262
8500 247

Knife edging money can be better spent on windage tray and better cam , rods, intake, whatever if staying below 7k rpm. Lighter pistons and valve train stuff better for above 6.6k rom use. Lower torque route to power does less damage to drivetrain but costs more to build engine for upper rpm use. High torque = broken parts.

Doesn't answer your questions, but maybe helps you decide what you're looking for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
considering i have this cam <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show ... vl=2&prt=5">http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=250801&lvl=2&prt=5</LINK_TEXT>
my peak hp is going to be a little higher in the rpm range. its not that aggressive of a cam but it is a solid tappet. so my peak hp will probably be around 6500 rpm. id like to keep it below 7500. mainly i was looking for specific brands and part #'s. the snail i plan on using is probably going the same one i used on my buick (pt-54) or the te-44r. so i wont have a very broad torque curve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
no i dont have that software. :oops: it is a little aggresive but i wanted the lift to match the flow characteristics of both sets of heads i have. the cam i had in my TR was about the same, except hydraulic flat tappet. i think it was .466 lift 270 duration,advertised of course. Jim Bell told me it was the best off the shelf cam i could use under boost. but i think im going to retrofit a roller and sell the one i have. since i can get better area under the curve and not have to run excessive duration to use that lift. so anyone have some suggestions on pistons and rods?
 

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34blazer said:
only forged piston i can find right now is wiseco. but cant find a p/n which leads me to believe thats its gonna be a custom order?
i got some wiseco custom pistons back from when there was a Group Buy on here. i can get you the part number off them later, they were for 3400 i believe mine are 9.0:1 compression. they offered higher also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
barrok69 said:
34blazer said:
only forged piston i can find right now is wiseco. but cant find a p/n which leads me to believe thats its gonna be a custom order?
i got some wiseco custom pistons back from when there was a Group Buy on here. i can get you the part number off them later, they were for 3400 i believe mine are 9.0:1 compression. they offered higher also.
ok thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks for the pricetag. this is going to be an expensive winter :lol: im sure i can send them specs on piston. considering i dont have the deeper dished pistons. mine are only -8cc
 

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This is what it says on the Wiseco Box:

CA-11121-4748
Auto repair chevy 3.4L V6;1480x3641

on the leeflet inside:
Comp. Ht. : 1.4800
Bore: 3.6417
the date of the run of these was 5/9/2006 for reference if you need it.

they came out to $570ish for the group buy. jbp is selling the same ones for $1000, and i think they cost around 700-800 if you buy direct from wiseco without any group buys.
 

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34blazer said:
cool thanks for the info :D any suggestions on rods?
327 H-beam aftermarket rods, modified to fit 3400. They need to be bushed and narrowed(machined).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
what the short block? maybe the 3400 crank is stronger than mine? i think they are both cast pieces. i was also thinking of the rods, they seem pretty stout. and some people say they are a little stronger than some of the forged 327 sm. journal rods. when prepped right of course
 

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34blazer said:
what the short block? maybe the 3400 crank is stronger than mine? i think they are both cast pieces. i was also thinking of the rods, they seem pretty stout. and some people say they are a little stronger than some of the forged 327 sm. journal rods. when prepped right of course
im sure stock 3400 rods are stronger than stock sbc 327 rods just due to technology in casting/forging processes over time.... but going to an aftermarket 327 rod should be alot stronger than a stock rod.

and for under $300 you got peace of mind that the aftermarket rods aren't going to blow up your motor, because nobody has really tested the stock rods to any kind of durability cycle, other than... "i put 3 runs on them with my 3xxhp motor at the track...still works".

I'm still trying to track down the release engineer for those rods so i can get real data and say...ok they TTF'd at 401ft-lbs @ 6xxxrpm or whatever. so obviously then you could determine whether shot peening/polishing them will get you to your power goals or not. Thats basically the only reason I haven't bought any rods yet and my motor build is at a stand still :-?
 
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