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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I’m somewhat new here, it’s my first post. I have a 92 Chevy Cavalier Z24, and for the 5+ years I’ve had it the radiator fan hasn’t once come on. I replaced the motor while I was throwing parts at it and of course this didn’t fix the problem. I just attempted the relay bypass to no avail, I have a three prong switch, a wire to the grn/wht wire, a wire from the switch to ground under the dash, but nothing. I was hoping to see if there’s a way to just bypass the relay entirely, or to just hook the switch and fan up to direct power so it would be operated by the switch only. Is this possible?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you try a new relay?
I did! I replaced the relay a couple years ago now, but that had never done anything. And the old fan motor worked just fine too, but we replaced it anyway. The connector that clicks woth the fan relay looks pretty melted, but I stripped a bit of the white green wire and the copper underneath all looked perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to v6z24
Have you checked the fusible link from the starters main terminal? It is the power to the fan relay, if I'm not mistaken.
I have not, and I'm not sure where that is. I lost my service manual when my storage unit got robbed so I'm flying blind as far as accurate wiring and repairs go. But about the fusible link, does that affect how the fan should operate under normal circumstances? And do you know of a way to power the fan motor off battery power through a switch (if the circuit w/relay or ground bypass isnt viable)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, the fusible link is the hi-amp power going to the relay. If it is blown (burnt in two), their is no power to the relay. Thus no power to the fan motor.
I would not suggest trying to bypass the relay. Track down why it isn't powering the fan circuit and fixing it would be the proper repair.
Gotcha, will do man I appreciate the help! I was hoping to avoid the relay altogether but if repairing the original circuit the right way is better and safer then it is what it is. I may have to find another cavalier in a junk yard though to find a different connector for the relay as I think that’s where the connections went bad. As you can see in the picture, the original connector looks melted. Is a pick n pull my best option or can I find the connector somewhere online/at a parts store?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah you can get one off a junk car. Note, that in 93 (I think it was) the relays and connections change to a narrow blade. Yours is the old wide blade. Also, are you sure the relay connector is burnt or is that just the gunk they used to keep moisture out? It is hard to really tell in the picture. You can check the terminals for power at the connector with a test light or a multimeter. Just probe the contacts of connector and see if there is power. Key off, as the fusible link wire is hot all the time.
I found the wiring schematics!
OHHHHHHHH MY LOOOOOORD you are a saint. I dont have a multimeter but I know we have test lights at my work. I'll go about testing it tomorrow and showing what I learn on here. If I can get this figured out with your help I will forever be in your debt :LOL: and those wiring schematics are gonna be a huge too help I'm sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can check the terminals for power at the connector with a test light or a multimeter. Just probe the contacts of connector and see if there is power.
So the testers we have at my work don’t quite work for this application, but, this coming Saturday I’m meeting with someone who’s helping me trouble shoot my AC.
On a now somewhat unrelated note, he mentioned that because my radiator fan isn’t working, it could be the reason my AC isn’t working as well. To be more specific, it blows cool-ish when driving on the freeway, but when the engine is warm and cruising in the city it blows quite warm. He said that the refrigerant passes through a separate radiator that shares the same radiator fan as the engine coolant radiator. Is there truth to this? And if so, would fixing the radiator fan also fix my AC issue (assuming theres no leaks and theres still R12 in the system)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, that is true. The fan should come on with the A/C.
Sorry its been so long since I updated this thread, but I have some good news! I brought my cav to a friend (who is EPA MVAC certified), and he tested my AC system. He plugged in some test equipment and found that there was no refrigerant/pressure in the system, which of course indicates theres a leak. BUT! He filled the system with nitrogen to see if we could hear it pissing out the nitro to pinpoint the leak. He put in 125psi, and after an hour of sitting in the system, the needle didnt appear to drop even 1psi! He said that since the car is as old as it is, it an 8/10 bet that the leak is incredibly small, and that its located at the condenser. WHICH needs to be replaced ANYWAYS because it's not currently working. I'll hit the AC button in the car and the clutch on the condenser doesn't engage. SO, if I replace the condenser, he said its an 80% chance that I'll kill two birds with one stone. A new condenser that will work with the r134 conversion, AND no more leaks! I'm on his calendar for the 6th of august to check on the pressure and how much nitrogen has leaked out. I'm going to work on acquiring a new condenser, and him and I will get to work on it some time in august or September.

(Edit) And as far as the radiator fan is concerned, he said that the connector and relay should be replaced. He said that the connector looked fried, and even if all the black gunk was put there by General Motors to keep moisture out of the connections, it wasn't doing the circuit any favors. So I'm going to get a new relay and connector and see what that'll do for me!
 
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