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My Z has started stalling any time after it has reached operating temperature. It starts right up after about 10-15 minutes most of the time. The last time it did this (about 2 yrs ago) it was the Crank posit. sensor. I am going to try that first. Also read about maybe it being vapor lock. Could the throttle body heater bypass influence vapor lock? I have done that mod. How do you trouble shoot that. My car has never had that problem yet. Also have the TCC disconnected for stalling when stopped.
 

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ok I had a similar problem on a couple cars I have driven they were both 2.8L MPFI (one 89 cavi z24 convertible) and the other a 89 Pontiac 6000 This is an automatic problem only

here's what happened

when you would drive for about 10-15 minutes on a highway (non-stop speeds of 100KM/H [about 55MPH]) it would stall when you exit the highway or come to a sudden stop (eg: traffic jam) well here's what the mechanic said: It was something to do with the Cyliniod or something.. blah blah blah. $80 to test it. and then a lot of money to replace it . maybe it wasn't;' the cyliniod, Anyway to make along story short here's how I fixed them BOTH

popped the hood, look down the drivers side of the engine, see the tranny? see the blue plug with 2 wires coming out of it? un-plug it and tape it up, Done
total cost $0.02 (about 2 cents for the electrical tape used)

if this does not solve your problem replace the plug, and have a mechanic check the car out cause I'm out of ideas.

This plug has something to do with the tranny diss-engaging the gears when stopping (kind of like a clutch) my dad calls this a "lock up tork converter" does this sound right to anyone?
anyway try this hope it helps, if not re-connect it and get it tested at a garage.

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Also you should definatly get that fixxed as soon as possible cause i hear it wastes more gas this way, i never noticed a big difference.
Also i still have the Pontiac 6000 and i did this about 7-8 months ago, never really fixxed it, (it's the parents winter/work beater)

have fun
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[ This Message was edited by: slayer on 2001-12-08 11:00 ]
 

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Slayer, the problem you described is the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) solenoid, which he already said he has disconnected because he was having that problem before <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.v6z24.com/messageboard/viewt ... forum=1">I">http://www.v6z24.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?topic=470&forum=1">I</LINK_TEXT></URL> have discussed this on the board before

Anyway, I highly doubt your problem is vapor lock, as that is a pretty much non existant with newer cars. It was generally a problem with older cars with the fuel pumps located at the engine, where as ours are in the tank itself. Vapor lock occurs when the fuel boils, creating vapor, or bubbles in the fuel, and then the pump can't suck the fuel through. Such things don't happen with the newer pumps in the tank, because even if some bubbles did form in the fuel rail near the engine, since the pump is in the tank, it would still be more than able to pump in more fuel, because the bubbles wouldn't be in the tank.

As for the problem...Your not getting any check engine lights or anything? I would definately replace that sensor, since you say it solved the same problem a couple years ago.

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1992 Cavalier Z24
 

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To me, this is symptomatic of a problem with the EGR valve. When they burn out they stay open instead of closing when the engine is at idle. Unfortunately, I have a 92 3.1 that has a computerized one and they are not cheap. This one cost me 180 bucks (US). Isn't it throwing up a code? It could also be the TPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Concur with Moon as the car is not popping any engine codes. Paid about 15USD for the crank sensor from Auto Zone, just waiting for my car to arrive (just moved from the East Coast)so I can install it. Also when I did the throttle body heat bypass, I went to Advance Auto and looked at their pre-formed hoses. Found one with a 90deg bend that looked like it would fit. Cost: under 5USD. Worked like a champ. Thanks all for the info.
 

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Hi, I had the same problem with my car stalling when stopped, and I had to disconnect my TCC as well (though I heard this can drop gas mileage). My question is will this do any long term damage to my tranny or engine, and what exactly would I have to do to remedy this problem so that it can be plugged in again? thanks

side note:
I had a 1988 2.0 auto Beretta before this and it had the same problem (though I didn't figure it out before I got rid of it). Is this a faulty transmission design by GM?
 

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I guess you could say that leaving it unplugged would cause excessive wear on the engine, since it will be running at a slightly higher RPM all the time on the highway. Other than that, it shouldnt harm anything, accept your gas mileage, by leaving it unplugged
 
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