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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
***Since this sticky is also getting quite large, I am going to reconfigure it to make it easier to navigate, so please be patient for a day or two until I get everything working correctly. If you find any mistakes or broken links, please pm me about them.***

This thread was created for repair information on transmissions. There is information in here for both the manual and the automatic transmissions. Please browse through this information before making a new topic in the repair forum because there is a good chance that some of your questions will be answered by the information in this thread.

The table master said:
<SIZE size="150">Table of contents for this thread</SIZE>

<SIZE size="134">1) Manual Transmissions</SIZE>
<LIST>
  • A)Maunal Transmission general info
    B)Getrag/Muncie 5 speed HM-282 (5TM40)
    C)Getrag F23 (M86/MG3)
    D)Isuzu built 5 speed RPO: MK7
    E)Slave Cylinders
    F)How to replace your clutch
</LIST>
<SIZE size="134">2) Automatic Transmissions</SIZE>
<LIST>

  • A)TH125C 3-speed automatic
    B)Automatic Transmission troubleshooting guide
    C)TV cable adjustment
</LIST>
If you have any additions, questions, or problems regarding this thread, please PM me.

Thanks,
Brad
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
** The following information was written and provided by 88_2.8_z24**

Got tired of having to search high and low to find "accurate" information concerning the differences between the Isuzu and Getra/Muncie transmissions. I've condensed it all down to one article. If anyone spots something incorrect please let me know, and I'll fix it.

There are several different manual transmissions used in our J Bodies. They consist of the following:

They are identifiable by the end covers.

# of Bolts / Transmission / Cover Type
7 MR8 Aluminum Cover
8 NV284 (early) Steel Cover
9 HM282 (MR10) Steel Cover
11 NV284 (late) Steel Cover
 

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<SIZE size="167">The Getrag/Muncie 5 speed (much rarer) RPO: MG2</SIZE>


Taken from http://www.v6z24.com and thanks to v6h.o for the pic





Taken from : http://my.execpc.com/%7erodney1/getraginfo.htm
The transmission was actually designed and used in Germany then built by GM in their Muncie, Indiana, plant for use in the GM V6 cars, hence the occasional reference to Muncie/Getrag. The case was redesigned to fit GM V-6's. GM decided it was more economical to buy the Getrag design than start from scratch to design their own transmission for the 2.8. All late 86's, 87 & 88 V6 manual transmission Fieros had the 5-speed Getrag. A little calculation (no hard #'s are available to my knowledge) would indicate about 20,000 5-speed Getrags were built in late 86, + 87, + 88.

General Motors used the Getrag in all 5-speed V6 and Quad 4 applications and they are basically identical. They all have a final drive ratio of 3.61:1. In the Quad 4 Getrags,GM varied the ratios of the individual gears (1st - 5th). On the V-6 Getrags, 1st - 5th gear ratios are always the same.Quad 4 Getrags only fit Quad 4's and will not bolt up to a V6. A V6 Getrag will also bolt up to the Fiero 4 cylinder, 3.1 and 3.8. In addition, a 3.94 final drive was used in the 92-93 Quad 4 hi-performance with the W41 option. This final drive gear set can be installed into a Fiero Getrag (For about $900 in parts plus labor)

Most front wheel drive Getrags use a steel pick-up cog on the differential carrier for the speedometer. This will need to be replaced with the plastic gear used in the Fiero. Any 85-88 Manual speedometer sending unit will work. The GM part # is S8672319, List $4.40. To install this gear, you will need to "split the case". I have all the necessary instructions to accomplish this task. While this sounds difficult, it is actually "very doable" for the average do-it-yourselfer. The correct sealant to use between the case halves when reassembling is Locktite 518 gasket eliminator flange sealant.

There is one design change in all of these Getrags used in the front wheel drive V-6 vehicles. The rod where the shift arms connect to is shorter than the Fiero Getrags.

What to watch for: The Getrag is an extremely durable and long lasting transmission but it has one major problem. That involves the Timken side bearings on the differential assembly (Where the axles exit the transmission). As these bearings wear, the differential assembly will twist during acceleration and deceleration. If the wear gets too great, this will put pressure on the main shaft, which has the pinion gear hobbed onto it. The ring gear and the pinion gear run parallel to each other. When pressure is applied to the main shaft pinion gear, this shaft will fail. The shaft will be pushed into the bearing, and the bearing face, which is the shaft itself, will deteriorate. The pinion gear is on the end of the shaft with only a bearing race after it. The shaft is, unfortunately, the bearing race on this end. A new shaft is $121 if needed. (GM part# 14082129)

When checking for wear - just shaking an axle is not a true indicator of wear. There is a certain amount of play between the axle and the differential. A better test is to shake an axle up and down and watch the opposite axle for movement. A "perfect" test is no movement on the opposite axle. Any movement means the differential bearings are worn and replacement of the bearings may be advised. You can use a trans with slight wear_.replace only if serious looseness is noted, or if you want to have a "perfect" trans.

Any higher (50 K or more) transmission may need a new clutch release arm. If you buy a transmission with a lot of wear on the carrier bearings, you probably will need to buy a new main shaft. A $250+ Getrag unit that needs a overhaul may be a better bargain than a $750 unit that needs a minor overhaul anyway. There is always a possibility that there could be some items in a high mileage unit that would be worn and in need of replacing. Because of the prices of some of these internal parts, this quickly makes it foolish to consider a high priced unit that needs a overhaul. You may want to make it clear (In writing) that the yard you buy from guarantees a "rebuildable core". I bought a Getrag with 134,000 miles on it , which looked like few, if any, oil changes were done on it; and the main shaft and Timken side bearings. were the only major problems (The side bearings had quite a bit of wear). The rest of the internal parts showed remarkable little wear!

FWD Getrags have a long axle assembly arm bolted on the case. This easily unbolts and the axle can be pulled from the differential. Grab the axle with the large pliers etc. and hit the pliers with a hammer to release it.

Axle seals are very tough to install. Tip: Remove some or most of the sealant that is on the seal and use some of the Locktite # 518 sealant. Find a suitable round driver that will match the outer lip area to tap the seal in. (Try a piece of PVC pipe). Anything less is asking for trouble! If the wire spring falls off when installing the seal just use two small Allen wrenches to reinstall it.

Overhaul: When a Getrag is overhauled, there are a couple of items that must be replaced, at a minimum. They are the input shaft bearing (Where the throw out bearing rides on) GM part# 14082181) the main shaft side bearing below it, (GM part#14092035) the 2 differential bearings, (GM part# 9437733 ) and the axle seals, (GM part# 90342143). If the transmission has over 70,000 miles, the clutch release arm and bearings should also be replaced. The 2 large sealed bearings on the opposite side are normally reusable unless this is a high mileage unit. (over 100K). The rest of the internal parts must be checked and replaced if necessary. More than likely, none will be needed.

Who should overhaul a Getrag? : Since this transmission is such a low production and durable unit, very few people are familiar with them. Few, if any transmission shops are knowledgeable on these units and should probably be avoided. These shops do most of their business in automatic transmissions and generally exchange failed manual units with salvage units. I am fortunate enough to have a transmission rebuilding shop in my area, which only rebuilds manual transmissions (Also rear axles and transfer cases). They do not remove or install them, only rebuild them. These are things that you should be looking for in a re-builder, since the overhaul involves both a manual transmission and a rear axle set-up. Setting up the correct "Crush" on the side bearings for the differential is extremely important for long life, since this is the weak link of the Getrag. Improper crush will greatly reduce the service life of the side bearings. Two different size shims are used in the rebuilding process, 62mm and 63mm OD. When GM built these transmissions, they had special assembly jigs and used a "select fit" single thickness shim. The GM service manual lists these shims. More than likely, when a Getrag is overhauled, the shim thickness will most likely change from the original, because of the new bearings that are installed. When a re-builder sets the "crush" on the differential bearings. typically they will add shims until they feel the rotating resistance is correct (This involves splitting the case several times). My re-builder stocks several thickness' of shims for this purpose. Most transmission shops might stumble at this point and possibly not do the job correctly. They may just use the old shims which could be too thick or too thin. Since it is no small effort to redo this, it should be done correct the first time.



Rebuild kits are available here http://www.drivetrain.com/muncie282FWD.html.

Many say they are reliable up to 300-350 horsepower. Though some say up to 400 horsepower.

I found these specs while searching.
HM-282 (5TM40)
200 lb/ft maximum torque
88 lbs. dry weight
7000 RPM Maximum input speed
There are two variations to this transmission. They are the NVG and the 5tm40. The 91-92 cars recieved the NVG/ 5tm40 trans (with the external slave cylinder). The 91-94 cars recieved the NVG. The 93-94 cars recieved the NVT/t550 trans with an internal slave cylinder.

The getrag trans used in 2nd Gen J bodies was the HM282. The one used in the W Body 3.4 DOHC engines was the HM284.

The new RPO code for the getrag trans in the 3rd gen J bodies is M86/M94/MG3
(there are also 2 different Isuzu transmissions for 3rd gens too)

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
<SIZE size="167">Getrag F23 (M86/MG3) Five-Speed Manual Car Transmission </SIZE>

2004 Model Year Summary
• New shift cable bracket for Saturn applications

FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW OR CHANGED FEATURES

NEW SHIFT CABLE BRACKET FOR SATURN APPLICATIONS
The bracket that holds the shift cable entering the transaxle on Saturn applications has been redesigned for ease of assembly.

LOW MAINTENANCE
The five-speeds use DEXIII, the common fluid in GM automatic and some manual transmission applications. The fluid is certified for the life of the transaxle. In addition, the clutch is actuated hydraulically, automatically compensating for wear and eliminating the need for clutch adjustments.

OVERVIEW
The five-speed is a three-axis conventional transverse manual transaxle with fully synchronized reverse gear. It features compact packaging, broad low-torque applications, and reliable operation. The M86 was introduced for the 2000 model year in the Chevrolet Cavalier; the Pontiac Sunfire and Grand Am; and the Oldsmobile Alero.

The five-speed has two gearsets on each of three parallel shafts - the input shaft, the output shaft, and the intermediate shaft. This three-shaft (also called three-axis) design results in a very short axial length for better packaging. There are three separate shift fork shafts, which hold three shift forks to activate the synchronizer rings for the two gearsets on each of the three gear shafts. The shift forks are activated by a cable system. The clutch release bearing is operated by a concentric slave cylinder that surrounds the input shaft in the clutch housing. A concentric slave cylinder allows more linear clutch feel than an external lever-actuated clutch and release bearing. The input shaft carries the third and fourth gear synchronizer, the intermediate shaft carries the first and second gear synchronizer, and the output shaft carries the fifth and reverse gear synchronizer. The aluminum case contains a conventional final drive gearset.

There are sintered bronze double-cone blocker rings on the synchronizers for first and second gears, while the remaining gears all have carbon fiber blocker rings on their synchronizers. Carbon fiber is an extremely durable friction surface that remains stable even under extreme heat, so it lasts longer, especially under abusive conditions.

Reverse gear is synchronized, a design advantage because the vehicle does not have to be completely stationary in order for reverse gear to be selected by the driver.

The specifications for the transaxle came mostly from Opel, which uses most of the production of the transaxle in the Astra, Vectra and Zafira in Europe. Getrag builds the transaxle in Bari, Italy. The primary differences between the M86 and MG3 are the gearset ratios (see specifications page) and the clutch-housing (also called bell-housing) machining. The case of the M86 and MG3 are cast identically, but mounting bosses are drilled for different engine mounting studs.

Here's some specs on it.
Type:
Transverse Front Wheel Drive, Five-speed Manual Transaxle.

Engine Range:
2.2L DOHC (M86/MG3)- 2.4L
2.4L DOHC (M86)- 2.4L )

Maximum Engine Torque:
210 Nm

Maximum Gearbox Torque:
230 Nm

Fluid Capacity (Approximate):
1.7 L (Dry) = M86
1.8L (Dry) = MG3

Case Material:Aluminum

Gear Ratios: (M86)
First: 3.58
Second: 2.02
Third: 1.35
Fourth: 0.98
Fifth: 0.69

Reverse: 3.31

Gear Ratios: (MG3)

First: 3.58
Second: 2.02
Third: 1.35
Fourth: 0.98
Fifth: 0.81

Reverse: 3.31
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<SIZE size="167">Isuzu built 5 speed RPO: MK7</SIZE>





It is good up to the 200-250 horsepower range. Though they are not as strong as the Muncie/Getrag units.

Rebuild kits are available here http://www.drivetrain.com/isuzuMR3_MK7.html

There are two versions of this trans. There is a "U.S Spec" and a "Japanese Spec". The U.S Speci s not as strong and is built using cheaper lower quality parts. The U.S built trans uses cast spider gears. Where as the Japanese units use machined gears.

The Isuzu and Getrag trans use different cables, C.V Shafts,.

Here are the final gear ratios for both the Getrag and Isuzu units.

Isuzu 5 Speed Manual (RPO: MK7)
1st - 3.91
2nd - 2.18
3rd - 1.45
4th - 1.03
5th - 0.74

HM-282 (Muncie/Getrag) (RPO: MG2) and NVT 550 (New Venture) 5 speed
1st - 3.50 (driven gear 49 teeth, drive gear 14) 33mph @ 6000 rpm
2nd - 2.05 (driven gear 41 teeth, drive gear 20) 56 mph @ 6000 rpm
3rd - 1.38 (driven gear 33 teeth, drive gear 24) 84 mph @ 6000 rpm
4th - 0.94 (driven gear 35, teeth drive gear 33) 115 mph @ 5650 rpm
5th - 0.72 (driven gear 31 drive gear 43) 119 mph @ 4450 rpm
Final Drive Ratio - 3.61:1
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's pics of the three different slave cylinders used.







*87-88 2.8's were equipped with the isuzu trans (though some have been reported to have come with Getrags)
*89-up V6 recieved the getrag trans
*ALL 4 cylinder equipped cars recieved the isuzu trans

(Much information was taken from http://www.v6z24.com)
Reposted from http://www.ohio-jbodies.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<SIZE size="134">Here are a set of instructions for replacing the clutch.</SIZE>

In the instructions, I have tried to include all the differences that you will find with the different transmission types. The steps for the external slave trannys (88-92) are in <COLOR color="red">red</COLOR> and the steps for the internal slave trannys (93-94) are in <COLOR color="blue">blue</COLOR>.

<LIST>

  • <SIZE size="150"> Removal </SIZE>

    1) A 10mm and a 13mm bolt hold the air filter box in place remove them disconnect the IAT sensor on air filter box loosen off clamp on the intake tube at the throttle body and remove the entire airbox assembly.

    2) 4-13mm nuts hold the exhaust cross over pipe in place remove them and then take off the cross over pipe.

    3) Place a jack under the transmission to take the weight off the upper transmission mount.

    4) Remove the bolt going through the bracket bolted to the transmission through the mount that is bolted to the body.. 18mm head on the bolt 21mm nut.

    5) Lower the jack and let the transmission lower down and rest on the subframe.

    6) Remove the two top bell housing bolts 18mm and 2-13mm bolts that hold the bracket for the mount to the top of the transmission. the bracket stays in the car for now.

    7) 2-15mm nuts on the top of the mount bolt it to the body remove them along with the 13mm bolt on the bottom of the mount holds it in place as well. Using a 3" 3/8 extension, short 13mm socket and ratchet loosen the bolt off 3/4 of the way. The bottom of the mount is slotted so you don't have to take the bolt all the way out. Remove the mount and bracket you unbolted before.

    <COLOR color="red">8 ) 2-13mm nuts hold the slave cylinder in place on the 1988-1992 5-speeds, remove them and move the slave out of the way. The plastic line has some give to it but don't bent it to much it will break. The slave is going to be left in the car so make sure it's out of the way of the transmission when it's coming out of the car.</COLOR>

    <COLOR color="blue">8 ) On 1993-1994 cars, there is a quick connect fitting where the slave line passes into the transmission, remove that line. </COLOR>

    **Note** On all years, it is a good idea to unhook the clutch pedal from the cable inside the car to prevent someone depressing the clutch pedal when the slave is unhooked and messing it up.

    9) Mark the shifter cables as to where they go. 15mm nuts hold them to the brackets. when the nuts get loose you'll have to hold the cable up into its bracket the back of the stud is slotted to fit the bracket it bolts to. this keeps the stud from turning.

    10) On the bracket bolting the shifter cables to the transmission there is a stud at the top with a 10mm nut on it. back that off 3/4 of the way. you'll be able to remove the shifter cables from the bracket.

    11) Remove the bracket that held down the shifter cables. It's bolted to the transmission with 3-10mm bolts. this gives you access to 1 of the back bell housing bolts so you can remove it.

    12) Remove the other 2 top bell housing bolts. One or both of them will be studs with ground wires attached with 15mm nuts on them.

    13) You can remove the speedo cable or if it's electronic disconnect it now from the top or wait till you get to the bottom.

    14a) To remove the cable on 1988-1990 cars you just unscrew the cap at the top and pull the cable out of the speedo bullet.

    14b) On 1991-1994 cars with an electronic speedometer, simple remove the connector from the transmission.

    14c) Make sure to remove the black rubber hose that vents the transmission which is attached to the driver's side strut tower.

    15) Jack the car up and remove the wheels.

    16) Drain the tranny fluid. There is a 15mm plug on the bottom of the transmission.

    17) Remove the dust cover from the front of the transmission, it's 2 pieces held in with 3 - 10mm self tapping screws.

    18 ) Remove the sway bar end link from the drives side only. most likely it's gonna be rusted solid and give you lots of troubles. Don't be afraid to cut it off, it's only a $10 item to buy at a parts store.

    19) Remove the 2-13mm nuts that bolt the sway bar to the drives side subframe only.

    20) Remove the dog bone mount. It's held in by a 13mm bolt and a 15mm nut. I usually leave it attached to the k-member and just pry it out of the bracket for the transmission.

    21) Using a jack, support the motor.

    22) Remove the 6-15mm bolts that attach the k-member on the driver's side to the body. ( The front 2 should have large washers, the back to don't, the middle 2 are much longer)

    23) If your car has the subframe brace it'll be attached to the middle 2 bolts you'll have to remove them from the passengers side as well. The k-member will still be attached to the car by the lower ball joint, just move it out of the way and tie it down.

    24) Using a pry bar between the transmission and the inner joint of the axle pry the drives side axle out from the transmission. Be careful not to cut the axle seal.

    25) Both lower bellhousing bolts should be studs with ground wires attached. remove the 15mm nuts and the ground wires support the transmission.

    26) Remove the 18mm bell housing bolts and pry and wiggle the transmission off the dowels. Be careful when pulling it back the intermediate shaft will still be in the transmission as it's come back. Be sure not cut the axle seal. When you are lowering the transmission make sure the impute shaft clears the pressure plate and the passengers side intermediate shaft is clear from the transmission. It may also be helpful to loosen the intermediate shaft mount to engine block bolts, this will make the separation of the tranny and the engine much, much easier.

    27) The pressure plate is bolted to the fly wheel with 6-13mm bolts when you are removing the last one put your hand under the pressure plate to catch the clutch disc cause it will try to fall out.

    <SIZE size="150"> Installation </SIZE>

    28 ) When installing the new clutch clean the surface of the pressure plate where the clutch disc rides off with brake clean or hot soap and water and a clean rag.

    29) Get the flywheel turned at a machine shop.

    **note** Do not touch the outer surface of the clutch disc or where the disc rides on the pressure plate or flywheel.

    30) Use the alignment tool to align the clutch disc while you bolt up the pressure plate. It helps to hold the tool up slightly when bolting down the pressure plate.

    31) When bolting down the pressure plate be sure to do it in a criss cross pattern and do it evenly and slowly. When the pressure plate is tightened all the way down the fingers should be even. Check where the release bearing rides the surface should be smooth with no groves in it. If it is slightly grooved you can clean that up with light sand paper or scotch bright. If it has deep groves you will have to have the bell housing half the transmission replaced. ** torque the pressure plate bolts to spec**

    32) Lightly grease where the release bearing rides and where the fingers for the fork contact the release bearing.

    33) When installing the transmission it helps to have it in gear make sure you don't cut the passengers side axle seal, you will have to line up the axle and the clutch at the same time. It takes a lot of wiggling to get the transmission to spline into the clutch disc at times. Take your time with it and just be sure not to suck the transmission into the motor if it wont line up on the dowels.
</LIST>

<SIZE size="84">Thanks to _hec_ for finding this information. I also edited and added some information here and there. All pictures were taken by myself too. This should only be used as a guide, use this information at your own risk.</SIZE>
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This was written by Lotsogas. I will be adding stuff to this later. Consider it under construction. :D :D :D :D

Got a problem with your automatic transmission? You've found the right
place! For the TH-125c

Is your transmission not shifting at the proper timing; or does it not shift
at the same time it used to? Then It's probably time for you to re-adjust the TV (Throttle-valve) cable.

Step 1 Stop engine.
Step 2 TBI equipped models, Remove air cleaner assembly.
Step 3 Push and hold down the metal readjusting tab at the engine end of
the cable.
Step 4 While holding the tab down, move the slider until it stops against
the fitting.
Step 5 Release adjustment tab.
Step 6 Rotate the throttle lever to the wide-open position, cable will
come back and automatically readjust itself.
Step 7 Road test the car, if delayed or only full throttle shifts occur,
TV or internal transmission damage may be present.

Does your car shudder in reverse?

Did you check fluid level and colour?
Does the fluid smell burnt?
Is the tranny mount broken or bent?
Is there any damage to the tranny fluid pan?
All these can be contributing factor in shuddering.

If your fluid smells burnt, or is any other colour than pink, or has more
than 50,000 miles/80,000 kilometres, then I would suggest changing the fluid
and filter.

Step 1 Remove all but one of the 16 bolts holding down the tranny fluid
pan.
Step 2 Place drain bucket under the pan and slowly remove the last bolt,
most of the fluid should slowly drain out of the opposite end and prevent a
mess.
Step 3 Remove the filter, O-ring seal and remaining gasket from the metal
surfaces between the tranny and oil pan.
Step 4 Clean fluid pan and magnet with solvent and check for metal
shavings.
Step 5 Lube new O-ring and insert it into the valve body .
Step 6 Insert new filter into valve body opening, making sure not to
damage O-ring seal and positioning it into same place as the last one.
Step 7 Place new gasket on top of the pan, place 2 or 3 bolts through the
pan and gasket, place pan under transmission and screw in the bolts a few
threads.
Step 8 Install the remaining bolts making sure that none are cross
threaded and use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 120 (INCH) pounds.
Step 9 Refill transmission with about 4 liters (1 gallon) of transmission
oil of your choice. Some may take more and some may take less, start the
engine, and stop it. Recheck fluid level until proper level is reached.
Does your transmission slip excessively?

Well, I'm sorry to tell you but there are no know adjustments to this
transmission for slipping.

Does your car stall at a light? Do you miss that "4th" gear?

The problem will most likely be the TCC* solenoid.
But this isn't for the weak hearted, you will need to be fairly inclined and
a copy of the diagram.

Step 1 Remove Valve Body cover.
Step 2 Disconnect wiring harness from case electrical connector and leads
from pressure switch.
Step 3 Remove torque converter clutch solenoid bolt to auxiliary valve
body.
Step 4 remove 3rd clutch pressure switch.
Step 5 Remove 2nd clutch switch. (If applicable)
Step 6 Install 2nd clutch switch. (If applicable)
Step 7 Install 3rd clutch pressure switch and torque to 97 (INCH) pounds.
Step 8 Install torque converter clutch bolt to auxiliary valve body.
Install new O-ring.
Step 9 Re-connect wiring harness to the case and switches.
Step 10 Re-install valve body cover with a new gasket and check tranny
fluid level and add is necessary .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is a page from the factory manual on the TV cable for the automatic TH-125c 3-speed transmissions.

I thought that it may be of some use.


Brad
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bleeding Procedure for clutch without a bleeder valve.

1) Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.
2) Loosen the clutch master cylinder mounting nuts to the ends of the studs, but do not remove the master cylinder.
3) Remove reservoir cap and diaphragm.
4) Depress slave cylinder pushrod ? inch and hold.
5) Install diaphragm and cap while holding down the pushrod.
6) Release slave cylinder pushrod.
7) Hold the slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod end facing down. Note: the slave cylinder should be lower than the master cylinder.
8 ) Press the pushrod 1/3 into the cylinder in short strokes.
9) Remove cap and inspect for bubbles, if bubbles are present, repeat steps 1-8 until there are no more bubbles.
10) Reinstall parts and start the engine, push the clutch to the floor and hold for 10 seconds. Then select reverse gear, if it grinds? repeat procedure.
 
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